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CIRCLING 


THE 


GLOBE 


Letters  from  Foreign  Lands 

WITH 

Biographical  Sketch 


—  BY  — 

T.    W.  BROTHERTON 


■V   V.    .V  i;.  H..u.-t:,  r,(is  AllKel.s.  Cal. 


1-^ 


rO  my  father,  Jasper  "Brotherton,  whose 
upright  manhood,  sterling  honesty,  in- 
dustry and  strong   Christian  character 
are  a  perpetual   benediction,  this   volume   is 
affectionately  inscribed 

by 

THE  AUTHOR. 


;5U087 


H-;*> 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE. 

Dwelling   ov  .Author Frontispiece 

Author's  P(jRTR.\rr    S 

Pagoda,  Japax    25 

Ijotanical  Garden,  Singapore 43 

I'yramids    61 

loRDAN,  Flaci".  of  Baptism 66 


CONTENTS 

PAGE. 

Foreword   7 

Biographical  Sketch   9 

Pacific  Ocean    17 

Japan    23 

China 34 

Straits  Settlements  42 

Ceylon    49 

Arabia    56 

Egypt  and  Palestine 59 

Italy   69 

Greece  76 

Greece  and  Turkey 83 

Turkey   90 

roumani a  and  hungary 97 

AUSTRL\     104 

scand1xa\  l\    108 

Homeward  Bound   113 


FOREWORD 


THESE  random  notes  of  foreign  travel  were  pub- 
lished in  the  Auglaize  Republican,  and  are  now 
reprinted  at  the  request  of  some  of  my  traveling  com- 
panions on  a  great  part  of  the  journey,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  A. 
E.  Pomeroy  and  Mr.  Chas.  M.  Stimson  being  with  us 
as  far  as  Venice,  Italy,  and  Mrs.  Agnes  G.  Chichester 
and  daughter  Catherine  to  Cairo  and  the  Nile.  With 
many  others  from  Los  Angeles  and  vicinity  we  sailed 
from  San  Francisco  on  the  "Korea"  on  March  9th,  1909, 
not  as  a  party,  but  with  tickets  from  D.  F.  Robertson  of 
the  German-American  Savings  Bank,  to  whom  we  were 
indebted  at  the  starting,  and  during  the  progress  of  our 
journey,  for  many  thoughtful  courtesies. 

Mrs.  Brotherton  and  I  had  sailed  from  Nfew  York  on 
the  Steamship  "Zeeland"  of  the  Red  Star  Line,  on  May 
i6th,  1903,  for  Antwerp.  Belgium,  and  had  seen  the 
magnificent  Cathedral,  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe,  with 
the  great  painting  of  Rubens.  "Descent  from  the  Cross," 
and  to  Brussels  and  the  battlefield  of  Waterloo  and  back 
to  the  Hague,  Amsterdam,  the  Lsland  of  Marken  in  the 
Zuyder  Zee,  and  then  to  Cologne,  with  its  great  Cathe- 
dral, and  then  up  the  Rhine  to  Mayence.  Frankfort-on- 
the  Main.  Heidelberg,  with  its  great  L'^niversity,  to 
Strassburg,  with  its  wonderful  clock,  and  to  Basle, 
Zurich,  Lucerne  and  Geneva  in  Switzerland,  and  through 
St.  Gothard's  tunnel  into  Italy,  taking  in  IMilan  with  its 
statue-crowned  Cathedral,  through  the  many  tunnels  to 
Genoa  on  tlie  Mediterranean  Sea,  and  back  to  Lucerne, 
and  then  to   Munich   in    Bavaria:   X'uremburg.   with   its 


ancient  fortifications,  then  to  Dresden  in  Saxony,  and  to 
Berlin  with  its  many  places  of  interest ;  then  to  Hamburg 
and  across  the  storm-tossed  North  Sea  to  Leith,  Scot- 
land, the  port  of  the  city  of  Edinburgh,  taking  in  Melrose 
and  the  Scott  country.  Then  up  by  Sterling  Castle, 
over  the  Highlands,  with  its  heather  and  rough-coated 
cattle,  across  the  Lakes  made  famous  by  Scott,  and  to 
Glasgow,  and  to  Ayr,  the  home  of  Burns,  then  to  Stran- 
raer, and  across  the  Irish  Sea  to  Larne,  Ireland,  and 
down  to  Belfast  and  Dublin  and  across  the  Irish  Sea 
again  to  Liverpool,  England.  To  Manchester,  Chester, 
of  curious  interest,  to  Stratford-on-Avon,  with  Shake- 
speare memories,  to  Oxford  with  its  Universities,  Lon- 
don with  Parliament,  Westminster.  Tower,  London 
Bridge,  and  down  the  Thames  to  its  mjouth,  passing 
Greenwich,  where  longitude  begins,  and  down  to  Brigh- 
ton on  the  South,  then  to  Dover,  and  across  the  Channel 
to  Calais,  France ;  the  city  of  Paris,  with  its  environs 
of  thrilling  interest ;  the  tomb  of  Napoleon ;  down  the 
Seine  into  the  open  country  forty  miles  below  the  city, 
among  the  French  villagers  and  where  the  aviators  were 
already  learning  how  to  fly,  and  back  to  Antwerp,  re- 
turning on  the  "'Kroonland"  to  New  York,  and  having 
visited  the  various  places  of  interest  in  the  British  Isles 
and  Western  Europe  explains  the  fact  that  in  our 
"globe  circling"  these  interesting  and  frequent  routes  of 
travel  were  omitted  from  our  itinerary. 

Apology  is  offered  for  mistakes  or  inaccuracies  of  de- 
scription, or  the  omission  of  many  things  and  sights 
of  interest  on  our  journey.  These  letters  are  only  de- 
signed to  give  the  writer's  brief  notes  of  a  few  events 
and  passing  observations  on  the  way,  and  not  as  the  fin- 
ished productions  of  a  "Stoddard,"  nor  the  details  of  a 
"Baedeker"  or  "Murray." 

Los  AngivIvES,  April  28,  1910. 


T.    \\\     liuoTllKKTliX. 


Biographical  Sketch 


As  this  volume  was  written  for  circulation  largely 
among  relatives  and  personal  friends,  and  not  with  the 
expectation  that  it  would  be  of  interest  to  the  general 
public,  a  brief  life  of  the  author  and  his  work  may  not 
be  considered  out  of  place. 

Theodore  Widney  Brotherton,  the  son  of  Jasper 
Brotherton,  a  native  of  New  York  State,  and  Jane 
Widney  Brotherton,  a  native  of  Ohio,  of  English-Irish 
ancestry,  was  born  at  Piqua,  ( )hio,  ]\lay  29th,  1847,  being 
the  third  of  four  sons  Ijorn  of  such  union.  His  mother 
died  in  1851.  His  boyhood  years  were  spent  in  at- 
tendance at  the  public  schools  of  his  native  city.  In  the 
early  part  of  1862,  at  fourteen  years  of  age,  desiring  with 
a  boy's  curiosity  to  see  real  war,  he  went  to  Todd  Bar- 
racks at  Troy,  Ohio,  when  the  Seventy-first  Ohio  Infantry 
was  being  organized,  and  sought  to  enlist  as  a  drummer 
boy,  although  utterly  devoid  of  any  musical  talent.  There 
being  no  vacancy  in  the  regiment  in  the  drummer  line, 
and  the  regiment  having  received  orders  to  go  to  the 
front,  the  lad  accompanied  the  regiment  to  Paducah,  Ky., 
acting  as  cook  and  general  boy  of  all  work  to  the  Surgeon 
of  the  regiment.  Dr.  Hoagland,  and  then  with  the  regi- 
ment up  the  Tennessee  River  to  Pittsburg  Landing,  where 
General  Grant's  army  was  concentrating,  after  the  sur- 
render of  Fort  Donelson,  to  march  on  Corinth,  Miss. 

He  was  with  the  regiment  on  Sunday  morning,  April 
6th,  when  the  Federal  Army  was  attacked  near  Shiloh 
Church  by  the  Confederate  Army,  under  command  of 
General     Albert     Sidnev     Tohnston,     l)ut     being    a    non- 


lo  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

combatant  he  did  not  participate  in  the  battle,  and  could 
not  be  held  responsible  for  the  "surprise"  and  the  defeat 
of  the  Federal  Army  on  April  6th,  nor  the  credit  for  the 
recovery  of  the  lost  ground  by  the  union  of  Grant  and 
Buel's  forces  on  Monday,  April  7th,  but  was  present  and 
saw  the  bloody  tragedy  enacted  in  that,  one  of  the  greatest 
battles  of  the  Civil  War.  The  regiment  was  soon  after 
ordered  to  Clarksville,  Tennessee,  and  soon  thereafter, 
on  account  of  serious  eye  trouble,  the  lad  abandoned  the 
trade  of  war  and  returned  to  the  quiet  of  the  school  room. 

For  the  services  rendered  with  the  regiment,  after  the 
Civil  War,  at  an  annual  reunion,  T.  W.  Brotherton  was 
elected  an  honorary  member,  and  is  now  carried  as  such 
on  the  regimental  roll,  although  never  enlisted  in  that 
regiment.  At  a  reunion  held  at  Tippecanoe  City  he  was 
invited  to  and  delivered  the  annual  address,  depicting 
some  of  the  history  of  the  regiment  and  its  heroic  service. 

Having  war  fever  on  the  brain  and  being  unable  to 
keep  his  mind  on  his  studies,  on  the  fifteenth  of  Feb- 
ruary, 1864,  young  Brotherton,  then  having  reached  the 
mature  age  of  sixteen  years,  but  about  twelve  years  in 
stature,  enlisted  in  Company  I  of  the  First  Ohio  Cavalry, 
as  a  bugler,  but  still,  as  ever,  dumb  if  not  deaf,  on  the 
subject  of  bugle  notes,  and  was  sent  with  his  regiment 
to  the  front  at  Nashville,  Tennessee.  The  chief  bugler 
of  the  regiment,  after  trying  our  subject  out,  reported 
that  for  a  musician  he  was  "no  good,"  v, hereupon  the 
Colonel  assigned  him  to  duty  as  regimental  postmaster, 
and  there  in  the  postoffice  he  fought  most  of  his  battles 
in  deciphering  badly  written  addresses. 

He  went  through  the  war  until  its  close,  acting  as 
orderlv   for  General   Alexander  on  the   "Wilson   Raid" 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH  ii 

and  performing  such  active  duties  as  fell  to  his  lot.  never 
for  a  day  being  in  the  hospital  or  reporting  for  "quinine." 
At  the  cessation  of  hostilities  he  was  detailed  by  Brevet 
Brigadier-General  B.  B.  Eggleston  as  Military  Postmaster 
of  the  city  of  Atlanta,  and  had  full  charge  of  the  office 
until  ordered  to  Hilton  Head.  South  Carolina,  where  he 
was  mustered  out  on  September  13,  1865,  and  sent  home 
by  steamer  from  there  to  Xew  York. 

John  P.  Rea  was  the  captain  of  the  company  in  which 
Bugler  Brotherton  served,  and  became  Commander- 
in-chief  of  the  G.  A.  R.,  and  in  an  address  delivered  at 
Dayton.  Ohio,  as  reported  in  the  Herald  of  that  city. 
March  24,  1888,  said :  "^^'ell  do  I  remember  Comrade 
Brotherton  here.  He  was  more  than  a  comrade  to  me. 
I  remember  that  when  Brotherton  got  into  the  army, 
he  was  too  young  to  enter  except  merely  as  a  bugler, 
but  I  remember  very  well  that  at  the  sound  of  battle 
he  threw  away  his  bugle  and  seized  a  carbine."  The 
Captain  had  forgotten  that  the  Chief  had  taken  the 
bugle  away  a  month  before  the  first  engagement  which 
took  place  between  Decatur  and  Courtland  in  Alabama. 

On  his  return  from  the  Civil  War  he  finished  his 
course  in  the  Piqua  High  School,  and  then  entered  the 
Classical  Course  at  the  Ohio  Wesleyan  University  at 
Delaware.  O.,  and  was  graduated  in  the  class  of  1868. 
In  187 1,  the  l''nivcrsity  conferred  the  degree  of  A.  M. 
He  had  read  law  and  was  admitted  to  the  bar  by  the 
Supreme  Court  of  Ohio  in  December.  1868.  In  the 
next  year  he  was  engaged  and  assisted  in  the  defense 
of  the  famous  John  W.  King  murder  case  at  Lima,  O.. 
in  which  case  his  brother.  John  F.  Brotherton,  was  the 
prosecuting   attorney   and    represented   the    State. 


12  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

On  March  15th,  1870,  he  was  married  at  Covington, 
Ky.,  to  Mary  S.  Caff  ray,  and  pursued  his  profession 
of  the  law  at  Delphos,  O.,  where  they  Hved  until  her 
decease  on  the  13th  day  of  Januar}',  1872,  preceded  by 
the  loss  of  her  infant  son.  This  double  affliction  caused 
him  to  give  up  his  law  business,  to  move  away  from 
the  scene  of  his  grief,  and  to  enter  Newton  Theological 
Seminary  at  Newton  Centre,  Mass.,  where  he  spent  the 
next   seminary  year. 

On  his  return  to  Piqua,  he  was  invited  to  become  the 
pastor  of  his  home  church,  the  First  Baptist,  where  he 
had  been  brought  up  and  was  baptized  into  membership 
in  1866,  which  call  he  accepted.  At  the  end  of  one  year 
severe  ophthalmic  affliction  conipelled  him  to  give  up 
further  service  in  the  ministry.  He  returned  to  the 
practice  of  the  law,  to  which  he  seemed  better  adapted. 

September  24th,  1873,  he  married  Hulda  R.  Hall, 
daughter  of  Hon.  Jennison  Hall,  of  Piqua,  and  from 
such  union  two  children  are  now  living,  Mary  Myrtle, 
married  April  13,  1904,  to  Theodore  Morrow  Criley,  of 
Kansas  City,  now  of  Chicago ;  and  Theodore  Willard 
Brotherton,  now  living  in  Los  Angeles. 

In  1883,  when  Hon.  J.  B.  Foraker  was  first  nominated 
for  (jovernor  of  Ohio,  Mr.  Brotherton  was  requested 
by  the  Republican  Executive  Committee  of  the  State  to 
assist  in  the  campaign,  and  was  assigned  to  speak  with 
Foraker  and  Senator  Sherman  in  northwestern  Ohio, 
and  discussed  from  the  same  platform  the  political  ques- 
tions of  the  day.  Governor  Foraker  said  that  Mr. 
Brotherton  was  one  of  the  foremost  lawyers  of  the  State, 
and  on  his  own  motion  suggested  his  appointment  to 
fill  a  vacancy  on  the  Supreme  Bench  of  Ohio.  While 
practicing   law    at   Wapakoneta   his   junior   partner   was 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH  13 

Hon.  Georj^e  R.  Davis,  at  present  one  of  the  Judges  of 
the   Superior  Court  of  Los  Angeles  County. 

At  Lima.  O.,  in  1886.  ^[r.  Brotherton.  without  being 
a  candidate  before  the  convention  for  tlie  nomination, 
was  unanimously  nonu'nated  for  Congress  by  the  Re- 
publicans of  the  5tli  Ohio  Congressional  District,  and 
while  not  successful  in  a  strongly  Democratic  district, 
he  led  his  ticket.  As  a  delegate  to  the  State  Convention 
he  was  selected  as  the  member  of  the  Committee  on 
Resolutions  from  his  congressional  district,  and  was  ap- 
pointed by  Maj.  ]McKinley,  who  was  chairman  of  the 
committee,  as  one  of  a  sub-committee  to  prepare  the 
resolutions    for  submission   to  the   committee. 

In  1885.  the  Da\ton.  ( )..  Journal  and  others  sought 
to  nominate  Mr.  Brotherton  for  Lieutenant-Governor  of 
( )hio  on  the  ticket  with  Foraker.  The  Journal  in  its 
issue  of  May  28th  said:  "For  years  T.  W.  Brotherton, 
of  Wapakoneta,  has  sustained  the  Republican  cause 
without  hope  of  local  reward  and  at  a  constant  sacrifice 
of  time  and  means.  His  friends,  therefore,  on  their  own 
motion,  propose  to  do  wliat  they  can  to  bring  him  some 
general  recognition  for  his  services  by  presenting  his 
name  for  the  Lieutenant-Governorship.  His  acquaint- 
ances here  speak  of  him  as  a  gentleman  of  character  and 
ability  who  would  worthily  fill  any  office  in  the  gift  of 
tlie  people  of  the  State."  His  name  was  presented  to 
the  convention  at  v^pringfield  by  Gen.  C.  H.  Grosvenor 
of  Athens  and  duK  seconded,  but  before  a  vote  was 
taken  Mr.  l')rotherti)ii  withdrew  his  name,  although 
strongl\-  urged  by  Mr.  I'oraker,  the  nominee  for  Gov- 
ernor, to  allow  it  to  remain. 

He  rem(_)ve<l  to  Daxton  shortlv  after,  and  engaged  in 


14  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

the  practice  of  law  with  Judge  C.  W.  Dustin,  now  on 
the  Circuit  Bench  of  Ohio. 

He  removed  to  Los  Angeles  in  1890,  where  with 
others  he  organized  the  Citizens'  Bank,  and  as  President 
and  Manager  carried  it  successfully  through  the  panic 
of  1893,  and  remained  President  until  1897,  when  he 
resigned. 

He  was  admitted  to  the  bar  by  the  Supreme  Court  of 
California  and  by  the  United  States  Circuit  Court  for 
the  Southern  District  of  California,  and  before  each  of 
these  courts  has  appeared  in  important  cases,  although 
not  seeking  a  general  practice. 

Mr.  Brotherton  in  a  short  address,  when  standing  on 
one  of  the  summitSi  of  the  Sierra  Madre  Range  of 
mountains,  offered  a  resolution  that  the  unnamed  peak 
on  which  they  stood  should  be  called  Mount  Lowe,  in 
honor  of  Prof.  Lowe,  who  had  built  the  trail  to  the  top 
and  was  projecting  the  mountain  railway,  and  the  reso- 
lution so  offered  was  unanimously  adopted.  The  name 
Mount  Lowe  now  greets  the  circummundane  traveler  at 
every  hostelry  on  the  tourist  routes  encircling  the  world, 
and  the  writer  in  the  summer  of  1903,  when  visiting  the 
summit  of  Mt.  Rigi  in  Switzerland,  heard  of  Mt.  Lowe 
as  one  of  the  mountain  resorts  well  worth  a  visit. 

Mr.  Brotherton  was  for  many  years  a  member  of  the 
Los  Angeles  Chamber  of  Commerce,  and  delivered  the 
annual  address  at  the  banquet  held  at  the  Redondo  Hotel 
in  1896.  On  February  28th  of  that  year,  at  the  request 
of  the  Merchants"  and  Manufacturers'  Association,  he 
delivered  an  address  in  the  Assembly  Room  of  the 
Chamber  of  Commerce  on  the  subject  of  "Reform  in 
the  Assessment  and  Collection  of  Taxes  in  the  State  of 
California,"    in    appreciation    whereof    the    Association, 


r.KK^RAI'illCAl.  SKI-.TCH  15 

the  Board  of  Trade,  and  Chamber  of  Commerce  printed 
fifty  thousand  copies  for  circulation,  and  the  Board  of 
Trade  of  Sacramento  ordered  five  thousand  copies  for 
circulation  at  the  State  Capital.  Mr.  Brotherton  in  that 
year  was  asked  to  be  a  candidate  for  District  Delegate 
to  the  National  Convention  of  the  Repu])lican  party  to 
be  held  at  St.  Louis,  but  declined  to  enter  the  contest. 
The  Los  .-Xng^eles  Times  on  April  28th.  iScjf),  in  an 
editorial  favoring  Mr.  Brotherton  for  sucii  delegate, 
said:  "The  gentleman  is  a  man  of  strength,  l)usiness 
ex])erience,  and  political  convictions.  He  thinks  well 
on  his  feet  and  knows  how  to  utter  his  tlioughts  in  a 
way  to  convince  the  minds  and  arouse  the  enthusiasm  of 
his  auditors.  Mr.  Brotherton  is  a  suitable  and  efficient 
num  for  district  delegate  to  the  National  Republican 
Convention.  The  Times  says  this  on  the  merits,  not 
knowing  his  views  on  the  subject." 

Later  Mr.  Brotherton  was  nominated  for  State  Sen- 
ator from  the  Thirty-fourth  Senatorial  District  by  the 
non-partisan  convention,  wholly  unsought  by  the  nom- 
inee, and  was  cordially  supported  by  all  of  the  leading 
papers  of  Los  Angeles.  The  TiiJics  supporting  him  No- 
vember 4th,  1906,  said:  "Theodore  W.  Pjrotherton  is  a 
man  in  whom  the  utmost  confidence  can  be  placed  by 
the  people.  His  name  is  a  synonyiu  for  integrity  and 
for  strong,  decent  manhood." 

The  Express,  November  5th,  1906.  said:  "Honored 
wherever  he  is  known,  man  of  great  business  ability, 
free  from  corporation  affiliations,  is  sacrificing  financial 
interests  in  accepting  office,  a  man  who  will  prove  an 
honor  to  his  section  if  elected." 

The  Herald,  Democratic,  (Jctober  26th,  190^),  said: 
"Mr.  i-Jrotherton  should  receive  the  vote  of  every  Re- 
publican and  of  every  Democrat  opposed  to  the  push  and 
machine  element  in  each  party." 


i6  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

The  Hollywood  Citicen,  Independent,  October  13th, 
1906,  said :  "One  of  the  brainiest  men  in  the  Cahuenga 
Valley  is  T.  W.  Brotherton.  candidate  for  State  Senate. 
He  is  a  man  of  affairs,  of  experience,  of  high  repute,  an 
old  soldier,  a  scholar,  a  gentleman,  an  orator  and  a  good 
fellow." 

His  business  interests  have  been  many  and  varied,  in 
erecting  many  business  blocks,  dwelling  houses,  and 
planting  many  orchards,  road  building,  and  otherwise 
improving  city  and  country  in  a  busy  life.  He  is  a 
member  of  the  Stanton  Post,  G.  A.  R.,  of  the  California 
Club,  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  the  Fed- 
eration Club,  and  of  Temple  Baptist  Church. 

Believing  that  intoxicating  liquors  and  tobacco  are 
injurious  to  the  physical,  mental  and  moral  health,  he 
has  actively  sought  to  promote  temperance  by  total 
abstinence,  and  has  advocated  from  the  platform'  the 
abolition  of  the  saloon  as  the  most  demoralizing  agency 
in  America.  He  served  one  year  as  the  President  for 
Southern  California  of  the  Anti- Saloon  League,  and  has 
always  contributed  to  its  support.  In  many  public  ad- 
dresses he  has  advocated  a  clean  manhood  and  civic  right- 
eousness. When  a  member  of  the  Memorial  Church  he 
served  as  Trustee  for  many  years.  Believing  that  edu- 
cation and  religion  are  the  anchors  of  safety  for  the 
Republic,  he  always  contributed  to  the  spread  of  the 
Gospel  and  in  the  erection  of  houses  of  worship  and  edu- 
cational institutions. 

The  last  few  years,  having  retired  from  professional 
and  other  business,  he  has  spent  a  large  part  of  his  time 
in  home  and  foreign  travel,  and  wrote  the  letters  pub- 
lished in  this  volume  while  making  the  tour  of  the 
world. 


PACIFIC  OCEAN. 


Letters  From  a  Former  Well-known  Citizen  Who 
Is  Making  the  Journey  Around  the  World — In- 
cidents OF  THE  Voyage  From  San  Francisco  to 
Yokohama. 


Yokohama,  Japan.  March  26.  1909. 
Ed.  Republican  : 

If   you    think   it   worth    while   to   g-ive   these    random 
notes  to  vour  readers  vou  mav  do  so. 


OX  March  9th  we  sailed  out  of  the  Golden  Gate  at 
San  Francisco  Bay,  passing  the  old  brick  fort 
and  the  Farallones  into  the  storm-tossed  Pacific 
Ocean.  The  sea  was  very  rough  the  first  night  out, 
and  few  of  the  passengers  were  at  the  dinner  table. 
The  steamer  lurched  to  one  side,  and  over  went  fully 
one-third  of  the  dishes  onto  the  floor  of  the  dining 
saloon.  Many  of  the  passengers  who  were  not  ill  be- 
fore now  began  to  leave  the  tables  and  make,  like 
drunken  men  and  women,  for  their  staterooms.  The 
waiters  were  all  Chinese,  dressed  in  long,  flowing  robes 
of  blue,  with  long  queues  hanging  down  their  backs, 
and  as  they  flew  around  the  saloon  with  their  pigtails 
at  right  angles  it  was  a  weird  sight.  The  angry  waves 
dashed  over  the  decks,  the  night  was  dark,  the  storm 
was  raging,  and  we  could  only  say:  "We  will  stand  the 
storm,  it  won't  be  long — we'll  anchor  bye  and  bye." 
Mrs.  B.  being  somewhat  ill,  and  thinking  from  the  creak- 
2 


i8  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

ing  of  the  ship  that  we  might  soon  be  shipwrecked 
mariners,  had  me  take  down  from  the  ceiHng  of  the  state- 
room a  life  preserver  and  show  her  how  it  should  be 
put  on  in  case  of  emergency.  I  put  my  arms  through 
the  shoulder  straps,  drew  the  straps  across  the  waist  and 
tied  them,  then  buttoned  the  strap  across  the  chest  and 
then  was  ready  armed  for  the  fight  against  the  elements ; 
but  to  pacify  and  encourage  remarked  that  "Heaven  was 
just  as  near  to  the  sea  as  to  the  land,"  so  we  should  not 
fear,  for  the  same  God  ruleth  over  all.  The  perils  of 
the  sea  seem  more  apparent  and  alarming  than  those  of 
the  land. 

The  next  day  the  storm  was  gone,  and  we  were  out 
on  the  deep  sailing  on  and  on,  in  our  globe-circling 
trip,  leaving  home  and  loved  ones  farther  and  farther 
behind,  pur  first  lap  out  of  sight  of  land  was  twenty- 
one  hundred  miles  from  San  Francisco  to  Honolulu, 
nearly  as  far  by  sea  as  from  Chicago  to  Los  Angeles  by 
land.  We  passed  but  one  ship  on  the  way,  the  "Siberia," 
returning  from  Asiatic  shores.  After  five  days  of  un- 
eventful sailing  we  reached  Honolulu,  on  the  island  of 
Oahu  (Wahu),  on  the  morning  of  Monday,  March  15th. 
The  Hawaiian  group  of  islands  (formerly  called  Sand- 
wich because  the  islanders  used  the  chance  visitor  for 
sandwich  purposes)  are  south  of  latitude  22  degrees, 
the  same  degree  as  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  being  in  the 
tropics  it  was  very  warm  and  humid.  My  usually 
raucous  voice  had  left  me  and  I  could  not  speak  above 
a  whisper. 

The  port  was  a  busy  place,  where  we  entered  after  the 
yellow  flag,  denoting  that  our  ship  was  in  quarantine, 
had  been  pulled  down  from  the  masthead.  The  United 
States  health  officer  had  inspected  us  and  had  given  us 


PACIFIC  OCEAN  lO 

a  clean  bill  of  health,  sea-sickness  being-  considered  an 
upheaving^,  but  not  a  dangerous  nor  infectious  malady. 
As  the  ship  entered  the  narrow  entrance  channel  between 
the  buoys  and  came  into  the  harbor,  we  saw  the  United 
States  Transport  Logan,  with  thirteen  hundred  men  of 
the  13th  United  States  Regiment,  stranded  on  a  coral 
reef  and  unable  to  get  off,  although  assisted  by  tugs  and 
finally  by  a  British  man-of-war.  The  docks  were  lined 
with  people,  for  the  coming  of  a  steamer  was  a  great 
event  in  the  current  news  of  the  island.  The  reporters 
for  the  daily  papers — Honolulu  being  a  city  of  sixty 
thousand  people — came  on  board  to  interview  the  dis- 
tinguished men  on  the  steamer.  Somehow  my  fame  had 
not  reached  the  island,  and  I  escaped  an  interview.  I 
asked  Purser  Allen  of  the  ship  how  they  came  to  over- 
look me,  and  he  said  we  had  so  many  distinguished  men 
on  the  boat  that  he  could  not  discriminate,  so  he  told 
the  reporters  that  we  were  all  eminent  American  trav- 
elers. After  landing  we  hired  an  automobile  and  took 
in  the  sights  of  the  city  and  surrounding  country.  It  is 
certainly  a  charming  spot  in  a  tropical  sea  with  luxuri- 
ance of  vegetation  surpassing  anything  that  we  had  ever 
seen.  The  aquarium  on  the  island  was  of  special  in- 
terest, being  filled  with  the  finest  collection  of  fishes  of 
variegated  colors,  curious  shapes,  and  far  better  than 
the  government  exhibit  at  the  Jamestown  Exposition, 
although  that  was  extremely  fine  and  well  worth  seeing. 
The  parks  with  the  palms,  cocoanut  and  other  rare  and 
curious  trees  were  worth  a  long  journey  to  see.  W'c 
went  to  the  country  and  saw  the  Japs  and  Kanaka> 
working  in  the  rice  fields  knee  deep  in  the  water  for 
the  pitiful  sum  of  forty  cents  per  day.  The  sugar  cane 
fields    were    extensive,    the    banana    groves    were    well 


20  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

fruited.  The  most  curious  of  all  to  me  was  the  cocoa- 
nut  trees,  the  nuts  being  in  many  cases  twenty-five  to 
thirty  feet  from  the  ground,  and  the  tree  without  stem 
or  branch  of  any  kind.  Surely  a  monkey  and  only  a 
monkey  could  climb  them.  We  crossed  a  country  bridge 
with  our  machine,  the  torrential  stream  overflowing  some 
twelve  inches  over  the  bridge.  The  country  is  very 
fertile,  water  abundant,  and  vegetation  extremely  rank 
in  growth.  Returning  to  the  city  we  visited  the  mar- 
kets, the  first  Christian  church,  established  in  the  islands 
in  1820,  the  tomb  of  Queen  Lil,  the  statue  of  King 
Kamehaha,  and  the  Palace,  where  the  Legislature  was 
in  session.  Many  members  could  not  understand  Eng- 
lish speaking — the  old  islanders — so  the  English-speak- 
ing members  would  address  the  assembly,  and  an  in- 
terpreter would  explain  or  translate  into  the  Kanaka 
language  what  was  said,  or  what  the  interpreter  might 
think  was  said ;  the  slow  method  of  speech  and  trans- 
lation was  tedious  and  gave  time  for  thought  as  well 
as  for  forgetfulness.  The  Supreme  Court  was  in  ses- 
sion across  the  park,  and  I  had  met  Mrs.  Ballou.  wife 
of  the  Chief  Justice,  and  might  have  had  an  introduc- 
tion to  the  Chief  Justice.  I  was  not  courting,  but  sight- 
seeing, and  passed  on.  The  Alexander  Young  hotel, 
where  I  stopped  to  mail  a  letter,  is  a  very  large  and 
modern   hotel. 

We  returned  to  the  steamer  about  five  o'clock  p.m. 
after  a  day  of  strenuous  work  on  the  land,  dining  largely 
on  cocoanuts,  drinking  the  milk,  on  sliced  pineapples,  of 
which  I  took  two  helpings ;  of  papia,  a  melon  which  I 
did  not  like,  but  which  Mrs.  Ik  adored,  and  ate  my  por- 
tion as  well  as  her  own,  and  a  very  sweet  and  delicious 
banana  and  a  verv  good  native  fish.     Leaving  mv  wife 


IWCIFIC  OCEAX  21 

and  a  lady  friend  to  shop,  which  women  so  dearly  love 
and  men  abominate,  I  went  out  on  a  street  car  to  mins^le 
with  the  common  jK^ople  and  to  sit  at  the  feet  of  the 
natives  and  learn.  A  native  school  g-irl  about  fourteen 
told  me  of  the  children  and  the  schools.  She  said  all 
the  children  now  speak  and  read  the  English  language 
and  are  giving  up  the  tongue  of  the  fathers  and  mothers. 
I  walked  out  under  the  trees  and  examined  the  growth 
and  foliage.  The  roads  are  good,  the  business  is  done 
by  the  Americans  largely,  and  it  is  a  valuable  outpost 
for  civilization  and  defense.  It  was  a  very  fortunate 
thing  for  the  United  States  that  when  Paramount  Blount 
pulled  down  the  flag  it  did  not  stay  down.  The  islanders 
were  very  immoral,  incompetent  to  govern,  corrupt  in 
the  extreme,  and  could  not  have  remained  in  control. 

Sailing  on  and  on,  our  next  run  was  for  thirty-five 
hundred  and  forty-five  miles,  much  farther  than  from 
Boston  to  San  Francisco,  and  no  important  event  oc- 
curred until  we  reached  the  i8oth  degree  of  west  longi- 
tude Thursday  night  at  midnight.  We  went  to  bed  on 
Thursday  night,  and  when  we  got  up  in  the  morning  it 
was  Saturday  morning,  and  Friday  was  lost  and  lost 
forever.  On  Thursday  we  were  in  the  Occident  west  of 
Greenwich,  and  on  Saturday  we  were  in  the  Orient  east 
of  London  ;  then  we  were  at  the  setting  of  the  sim,  now 
we  are  at  the  rising  thereof.  Mrs.  B.  and  I,  when  in 
London,  rode  down  the  Thames  to  Greenwich,  where 
time  is  taken,  and  now  we  were  twelve  hours  earlier,  or 
had  just  circled  one-half  around  this  globe  of  ours.  We 
are  now  circling  the  other  half.  We  now  speak  of  Ohio  as 
way  out  West ;  at  home  we  called  it  "back  East."  This 
is  a  long  and  barren  stretch  of  water  from  Honolulu  to 
the  island  empire  of  Japan.     In  more  than  three  thou- 


22  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

sand  males  we  have  not  seen  a  sail,  steamer,  land  or  a 
sea  monster;  only  now  and  then  a  flying  fish  or  an 
albatross  flying  after  the  ship  in  hopes  of  dining  oflF 
our  garbage  cast  into  the  sea. 

Surely  it  is  as  the  Ancient  Mariner  has  said,  "Water, 
water,  everywhere,  nor  any  drop  to  drink."  Why  this 
earth  was  made  three-fourths  water  and  only  one-fourth 
land  we  can  now  understand,  for  it  was  made  to  sail 
on  and  to  give  us  restless  Americans  a  chance  to  go  to 
the  sea  in  ships. 

Our  ship,  the  "Korea,"  is  indeed  a  staunch  craft,  and 
under  the  command  of  Captain  Sandberg,  an  English- 
man by  birth,  with  a  German  name,  but  now  an  Ameri- 
can by  adoption,  is  entitled  to  our  praise  and  gratitude 
for  our  safe,  happy  and  gratifying  voyage.  Land  in 
sight !  There  sits  Yokohama  in  the  pride  of  her 
strength,  and  near,  only  eighteen  miles,  the  "Yeddo"  of 
our  geographies,  now  Tokio,  the  capital,  with  two  mil- 
lions of  people.  Ohayo,  pronounced  Ohio,  means  "good 
morning"  in  Japanese. 


JAPAN. 

Laborers  in  the  Field  axd  Shop  Work  Ten  Hours 
A  Day  for  Thirty-five  Cents — English  Lan- 
guage Is  CoXfPULSORY   in   THE   ScHOOLS — TEMPLES 

of   Beautiful   Architecture — Intensive   Farm- 
ing. 

MiYANOSHiTA,  Sagami,  Japan,  April  5th,  1909. 

WE  are  way  up  in  the  mountains  of  Japan,  coming 
up  by  railway  from  Tokio,  then  electric  cars, 
crossing  rivers  and  canons  to  Yumoto  and  then 
up  by  jinrikishas.  one  man  pulling,  another  pushing,  up 
steep  mountain  roads.  It  is  so  cold  that  we  have  fire  in 
the  room,  yet  the  "riksha"  men  are  clad  in  blue  jackets 
with  white  cotton  trousers  about  six  inches  long,  and 
bare  legs  with  straw  sandals  on  the  feet — two  men 
taking  us  up  two  or  three  miles  for  one  yen  (50  cents  of 
our  money).  Japanese  money  is  yen-sen,  one  hundred 
in  one  yen,  equal  to  one-half  cent,  and  the  sen  is  divided 
into  ten  rin,  equal  to  one-twentieth  of  one  cent ;  but  the 
latter  is  so  sinall  that  they  are  not  in  circulation,  or  at 
least  I  have  not  seen  one.  Another  mode  of  conveyance 
is  by  a  chair  (called  kago)  carried  on  the  shoulders  of 
coolies,  four  coolies  to  each  person,  with  the  chair  sus- 
pended on  poles,  on  the  shoulders,  two  men  before  and 
two  behind.  The  men  are  very  strong,  active  and 
muscular,  and  live  almost  entirely  on  rice,  fish  and 
vegetables.  Americans  would  starve  to  death  on  what 
Japanese  consume. 


24  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

The  laborers  in  the  field  and  shop,  working  ten  hours 
per  day,  receive  seventy  sen  per  day,  or  thirty-five  cents 
of  our  money.  In  manufacturing  fine  articles  in  jewelry 
and  high-class  work,  the  proprietor  tells  me  that  he  pays 
the  highest  of  wages,  three  yen  (one  dollar  and  fifty 
cents  of  our  money).  The  Japanese  are  particularly 
bright  and  learn  with  much  quickness.  I  talked  yester- 
day with  a  Japanese  girl  just  out  of  high  school,  who 
spoke  in  English,  German  and  French.  In  the  schools 
English  is  compulsory,  and  all  the  pupils  are  required  to 
take  English   for  one  or  two  hours  each  day. 

At  every  railway  station  the  name  of  the  station  and 
the  names  of  all  places  of  special  interest  in  the  vicinity 
are  printed  in  both  Japanese  and  English.  I  have  no 
doubt  but  that  in  fifty  years  Japan  will  be  an  English- 
speaking  nation,  and  that  in  time  the  Japanese  language 
will  die  out.  Even  Germans  and  French  doing  business 
in  the  cities  here  are  compelled  to  learn  English  to  carry 
on  the  transactions  of  commerce. 

I  have  been  through  the  country  for  two  or  three 
hundred  miles  to  see  the  fields  of  rice,  tea,  barley,  bam- 
boo (we  ate  bamboo  sprouts  at  lunch  yesterday),  and  all 
kinds  of  vegetables.  They  cultivate  every  foot  of  ground 
that  can  be  reached,  terracing  up  the  hillsides,  and  there 
is  no  waste  land  that  is  at  all  possible  for  cultivation. 
When  we  passed  along  the  roads  in  rikshas,  the  men 
and  womjen  working  in  the  fields  would  not  even  stop 
and  look ;  they  were  too  busy.  When  we  came  into  a 
village,  then  the  women  and  children  would  gather 
around  us  in  great  curiosity.  When  we  passed  through 
Shiba  Park  at  Tokio,  the  crowds  of  people  would  gather 
around  us  as  though  were  were  some  great  curiosity  on 
exhibition. 


''*^  •■<5w"V 


'..«.^ 


r\i,iiii\.    I.i'.i'T    III    Rir.iiT 


'1\      W.      UkdTIUJMdX. 

I.'.     M      Sii\i^ii\. 


I  AT  11  i.ki  N  i;    I.  II  KM  i>Ti;i; 
( '.  r  Mil-;     \  \  K  \  Mils  \. 


JAPAN  2-] 

Tokio  has  more  than  two  millions.  Women,  girls  and 
boys  carry  babies  strapped  to  their  backs,  and  the  num- 
ber of  babies  would  indicate  that  the  chief  industry  in 
Japan  is  to  raise  babies.  They  will  overflow  into  Korea 
if  the  doors  of  the  Pacific  States  are  closed  against 
them  ;  there  must  be  some  outlet  for  this  overcrowded 
nation.  We  visited  Nikko,  where  the  finest  Japanese 
temples  are  located,  both  Shinto  and  Buddhist.  Mr. 
McCormick,  a  missionary  at  Osaka,  tells  me  that  there 
are  but  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  Christians  in  the 
Empire. 

The  Diabutsu  (Great  liuddha)  at  Kamakura  is  a 
Buddha  of  suri)assing  beauty  as  far  as  architecture  is 
concerned.  We  went  inside  and  ascended  the  stairway, 
and  failed  to  see  "The  Peace  of  Nirvana,"  only  a  brass 
image.  We  visited  the  picturesque  island  of  Enoshima. 
The  worshipers  at  the  temples  cast  great  quantities  of 
money  before  the  shrines,  but  I  notice  that  nearly  all 
were  sens  (one-half  cent),  or  rins,  of  still  less  value, 
showing  that  the  worshipers  were  very  poor  or  thought 
the  god  did  not  need  much  revenue.  Some  of  the 
lacquer  work  in  the  temples  was  very  expensive  and 
had  been  there  for  many  years.  The  groves  of  crypto- 
meria  trees,  some  one  thousand  years  old,  surrounding 
the  Nikko  temples,  were  majestic  in  their  stateliness  and 
beauty.  The  houses  in  the  country  are  without  chim- 
neys or  windows,  rice  paper  in  the  day  being  used 
for  light,  and  the  fires  built  for  cooking  mostly  on  the 
outside.  The  roofs  are  covered  with  straw,  thatched, 
and  indicated  great  poverty  among  the  lower  classes. 
The  bathtub  is  a  water  box  on  the  outside,  and  a  bam- 
boo screen  protects  from  the  street,  and  it  is  so  open 
that  you  can  easily  see  the  nude  body  from  the  street. 


28  CIRsCLING  THE  GLOBE 

Men,  women  and  children  bathe  in  the  same  water. 
This  is,  of  course,  among  the  poorer  classes.  All  the 
houses,  shops  and  stores  are  built  with  sliding  screens 
to  make  separate  rooms.  The  stores  are  all  open  to  the 
street  in  the  daytime,  and  at  night  wooden  sliding  doors 
close  up  the  goods.  In  the  cities  the  windows  are  all 
iron-barred,  and  everything  indicates  a  great  protec- 
tion from  thieves,  which  are  very  numerous  in  Japan. 
In  the  hotels  we  have  pretty  Japanese  girls  to  wait  on 
us  at  the  table,  to  come  into  the  room  before  we  are  up 
to  build  the  fire,  and  to  bring  hot  water.  They  are  ex- 
ceedingly polite,  and  bow  so  charmingly  that  you  cannot 
help  but  hand  over  a  few  sens.  They  put  on  the  bed  a 
kimono  to  wear  to  the  bath,  fur  rugs  by  the  bed  with 
pretty  Japanese  slippers  for  your  wear  about  the  room 
(if  you  can  keep  them  on,  but  which  I  find  very  difficult). 
We  have  lots  of  little  attentions  and  plenty  of  good 
things  to  eat,  so  that  a  few  weeks'  stay  in  Japan  is  very 
fascinating  and  pleasant. 

On  our  return  from  Nikko  we  made  a  second  visit 
in  Tokio,  where  we  stopped  at  the  Imperial  hotel  and 
found  our  promised  passes  from  the  American  Embassy 
to  visit  the  palace  at  Nagoya. 

The  cherry  trees  in  Shiba  Park  were  just  beginning 
to  bloom,  but  it  was  too  early  in  the  season  for  the  per- 
fected blossom. 

We  start  for  Nagoya  today,  then  to  Kioto,  a  former 
capital,  then  to  Osaka,  and  expect  to  sail  from  Kobe  on 
the  1 2th  for  Shanghai,  China.  There  are  too  many  in- 
teresting things  to  attempt  to  give  you  rruore  than  a 
passing  glimpse. 


JAPAN  29 

Spends  Three  Weeks  in  Japan,  Traveling  by  Rail, 
Trolley  and  Riksha — The  People  Are  Indus- 
trious, Hardy,  Quick  to  Learn — Polite  on  the 
Surface,  But  Alert  To  Do  You  Up  in  Purchases. 


Nagasaki,  Japan,  April  14th,  1909, 

NEARLY  three  weeks  have  been  spent  in  Japan 
observing  the  people,  shops,  trading,  farming, 
production,  and  methods  of  work  and  transporta- 
tion. 

The  people  are  industrious,  very  hardy,  wonderfully 
quick  to  learn,  exceedingly  polite  on  the  surface,  but 
always  alert  to  do  you  up  in  purchases.  Goods  are 
marked  up  and  they  expect  you  to  jew  them  down  on 
price,  and  however  cheap  you  buy,  the  bargain  is  on  the 
side  of  the  Japanese.  Flimsy  construction,  linsey  wool- 
sey  material  in  gaudy  colorings,  and  with  the  exception 
of  carved  wood,  inlaid  work,  hand-made  lacquer  and 
work  on  metal,  not  very  desirable.  The  shops  have 
large  quantities  of  American,  German  and  other  foreign 
goods.  The  number  of  small  stores,  or  shops  in  the 
sense  of  stores,  is  really  surprising,  street  after  street 
lined  with  them.  The  streets  are  very  narrow,  generally 
not  more  than  twelve  to  sixteen  feet  in  width,  without 
sidewalks,  and  filled  with  men,  women  and  babies,  espe- 
cially the  latter. 

The  population  is  inmiense,  nearly  forty-five  millions 
of  people  on  the  islands  of  Japan,  and  the  whole  not  much 
larger  than  the  State  of  California. 

I  visited  a  grist  mill  in  Kobe  and  saw  three  men  en- 
gaged  in   grinding   rice.     Each   stood   on   the   end   of  a 


30  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

beam  with  a  hammer  on  the  end,  the  beams,  three  in 
number,  being  raised  by  the  weight  of  the  man  and  then 
stepping  off,  the  beam  fell,  and  with  its  weight  crushed 
the  grain,  something  like  a  pestle  and  mortar,  and  as 
primitive  as  the  rude  savage  of  the  forest.  Chi  the  road 
the  other  day  from  Kioto,  a  former  capital  of  Japan,  to 
Lake  Biwa,  we  passed  the  carts  hauling  in  the  freight. 
The  cart  has  a  long,  narrow  body  made  of  two  poles 
about  twelve  to  fourteen  feet  in  length,  two  feet  wide, 
and  balanced  on  the  axle  between  two  wheels  and  loaded 
so  that  the  center  of  gravity  of  the  load  rests  on  the 
axle,  the  wheels  making  a  tread  of  about  three  feet. 
These  carts,  loaded  v/ith  stone  and  other  heavy  material, 
are  usually  drawn  by  big  shorthorn  bulls,  sometimes  by  a 
shaggy  horse,  and  again  by  men  or  women  working  by 
the  side  of  men.  The  boats  in  Biwa  canal  (tunneled 
through  the  mountains  for  several  miles)  going  up 
stream  were  pulled  by  men  and  women ;  in  going  down 
by  the  current  of  water.  Fishing  is  a  great  industry 
here,  and  the  people  largely  live  on  fish,  vegetables  and 
rice.  Quantities  of  tea  is  grown,  and  tea  drinking  is  one 
of  the  greatest  sights  in  Japan.  Tea  houses  always  con- 
nect with  the  theater  and  form  the  first  act  in  the  play. 
The  theaters  have  no  comedies,  and  while  tragedies  are 
enacted,  the  only  thing  I  can  commend  is  the  poetry  of 
motion.  There  is  no  animation  in  the  actresses,  and  the 
yawling  from  the  stages  sounds  like  tommy  cats  on  the 
back  fence ;  but  the  handsome  costumes  and  flipping  of 
fans  and  courtesying  and  kotowing  is  picturesque  to  say 
the  least.  We  secured  entrance  at  Kioto  to  the  former 
Imperial  residence,  and  saw  some  very  handsome  ceilings 
of   old   wood   beams   decorated   with   copper   and   brass 


JAPAN  31 

clamps,  and  many  screens  finished  in  pure  gold  and  costly 
figures  of  birds  of  all  varieties.  They  have  had  neither 
lions  nor  tigers  in  Japan,  and  in  painting  them  on  screens 
they  are  very  amusing  to  one  who  has  seen  the  real 
ar.imal.  The  gardens  are  neatly  trimmed,  and  the  trees 
are  small,  but  very  pretty.  The  throne  where  the 
Emperor  sat  is  on  a  raised  platform  with  a  railing  in 
front,  and  the  people  bend  low  in  the  presence  of  His 
Majesty.  Handshaking  and  kissing  are  not  customary 
in  Japan,  and  swapping  of  microbes  in  other  lands  may 
not  be  conducive  to  health. 

Kioto  is  a  city  of  nearly  one-half  million  of  people  and 
re])rescnts  the  old  Japan,  prior  to  its  opening  up  by 
Commodore  Perry  in  1854;  while  Yokohama,  Osaka  and 
Kobe,  with  nearly  a  half  million  people,  each,  more 
nearly  exhibits  the  new  or  awakened  Japan.  The  seas 
here  are  so  full  of  craft  of  all  kinds,  from  the  modern 
steamship  to  the  ancient  sampan,  that  the  Japanese  have 
become  a  seafaring  people,  and  as  sailors  are  hard  to 
excel.  We  have  passed  through  Tsushima  straits,  near 
Shimnnoscki  on  the  Japan  Sea,  where  one  of  the  greatest 
naval  l)attles  of  modern  times  was  fought,  and  where  the 
Japanese  navy  destroyed  the  Russian  fleet  in  the  late 
war,  May,  1905. 

These  are  intended  as  "rambling  notes  from  a  globe 
circler"  and  not  a  statistical  or  guide  book  account  of  a 
tour.  We  climbed  up  the  long  stairways  of  the  Xag«\va 
Castle  and  looked  out  from  the  windows  upon  the 
maneuver  field  of  a  division  of  the  Japanese  army.  The 
artillery  corps  with  horses,  caissons  and  modern  guns, 
drilled  with  the  precision  and  accuracy  of  a  Cerman  army. 


32  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

The  cavalry  drilled  in  squadrons  in  fours  and  in  file,  with 
a  horsemanship  that  was  surprising.  The  infantry  de- 
ployed as  skirmishers,  fell  to  the  ground  and  went 
through  the  actual  work  of  a  line  in  battle  formation. 
The  Japanese  horses  for  the  carrying  of  rapid  firing 
guns  and  ammunition  and  provisions  were  all  on  the 
ground  ready  for  actual  work,  as  though  the  call  to  arms 
might  be  heard  any  minute.  They  are  certainly  becom- 
ing trained  as  soldiers,  and  discipline  and  obedience  are 
taught  from  youth  up,  so  that  an  army  of  equal  numbers 
can  hardly  equal,  if  excel  then\  and  as  an  enemy  they 
are  not  to  be  ignored  nor  despised,  and  any  nation  that 
engages  in  war  with  them  will  find  that  they  have  been 
in  a  fight,  and  not  a  skirmish  or  mock  engagement. 

We  have  traveled  through  Japan  by  rail  and  trolley 
and  riksha  for  about  six  hundred  miles  and  have  had 
the  opportunity  to  see  much  of  Japan  and  too  much  to 
describe  in  a  few  letters. 

In  passing  on  yesterday,  through  the  Island  sea  of 
Japan,  the  sea  was  very  smooth,  the  day  clear  and  the 
many  islands,  villages  and  ships  and  boats  of  all  kinds 
on  the  way  gave  us  an  unusually  interesting  and  instruc- 
tive voyage,  in  passing  the  narrow  strait  at  the  northern 
mouth,  was  Shimonoseki  on  the  right,  and  Moji  on  the 
left,  both  large  and  prosperous  cities.  The  former  city 
was  the  place  where  the  treaty  of  peace  between  Japan 
and  China  was  signed  in  1895,  when  Russia  interposed  to 
prevent  the  cession  of  territory  from  China  to  Japan  and 
thereby  incurred  the  hostility  of  the  latter.  Nagasaki  is 
a  very  important  city  and  is  the  port  at  which  Japan  first 
received  foreign  vessels  some  three  hundred  years  ago, 
and  has  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  people. 


JAPAN  33 

Large  coal  mines  are  opened  up  on  this  western  island 
of  the  four  composing  the  mainland  of  Japan.  Coal  is 
cheap  on  account  of  cheap  labor  here,  and  even  the 
Pacific  Mail  steamers,  of  the  Southern  Pacific  or  Harri- 
man  line,  take  on  their  supply  of  coal  at  this  port.  The 
coal  is  passed  up  to  the  steamer  from  lighters,  in  baskets, 
and  carried  by  men  and  women  side  by  side,  or  from 
hand  to  hand.  I  have  seen  women  here  time  and  again 
doing  the  work  of  men,  in  the  fields  of  rice,  tea,  barley, 
bamboo  and  other  products,  on  the  roads  pulling  and 
pushing  heavy  loads,  drawing  boats,  like  women  of  Hol- 
land, loading  brick  on  cars  at  the  stations,  carrying  brick 
and  mortar  up  ladders  on  high  buildings,  sweeping  refuse 
from  the  streets,  sprinkling  the  streets  with  dippers  from 
buckets  of  water  and  doing  much  more  menial  work, 
that  only  mules  and  the  strongest  men  are  able  to  do. 
Many  women  work  in  the  fields  with  babies  strapped 
on  their  backs.  The  degradation  of  women  in  Japan 
excites  our  warmest  sympathy  and  causes  us  to  feel  that 
Shinto  and  Buddha  worship  does  not  elevate  like  the 
Christian  religion.  Sir  Edwin  Arnold's  "Light  of  Asia" 
is  a  poetical  effusion  of  merit,  but  far  from  a  statement 
of  real  fact,  but  deals  only  in  poetic  fancies.  "The 
temples,  and  the  gardens,  and  the  groves"  are  there,  but 
the  regenerated  life  is  wanting.  This  will  end  my  Nip- 
pon wanderings,  and  if  the  spirit  moves  me,  I  may  send 
you  a  few  observations  from  China,  for  which  land  we 
shall  sail  tonight  or  tomorrow. 


CHINA. 

Sights  and  Scenes  in  the  Ancient  City  of  Shang- 
hai, China. 


Hongkong,  China,  April  20th,  1909. 

WE  have  now  reached  Hongkong  on  our  westward 
journey,   only   six   hundred  miles   from   Manila, 
and  the  place  from  which  Admiral  Dewey  started 
just  about  eleven  years  ago  with  his  squadron  to  capture 
or  destroy  the  Spanish  fleet. 

Our  last  day  in  Japan  was  spent  at  Nagasaki,  April 
14th,  and  while  the  steamer  was  being  coaled  we  took  a 
launch  and  spent  some  time  on  shore  sightseeing.  Tak- 
ing the  rikshas,  we  wound  around  through  the  narrow 
streets  amid  the  small  stores  and  shops  of  the  city.  We 
visited  a  small  factory  devoted  to  the  turning  of  tortoise 
shells  into  combs,  hairpins  and  all  kinds  of  ornaments, 
showing  fine  workmanship  and  a  brilliancy  of  polish 
unsurpassed.  We  passed  under  the  largest  Torrey  in 
Japan,  made  of  bronze  and  placed  in  front  of  a  Shinto 
temple.  We  climbed  up  the  high  steps  to  the  temple 
on  the  top  of  the  hill  and  had  a  fine  view  of  the  city 
and  the  bay  filled  with  all  kinds  of  ships  and  boats  of 
every  form  and  pattern.  We  visited  the  market,  filled 
with  all  manner  of  men  and  women  in  varied  forms  of 
dress,  and  some  with  almost  no  dress  at  all.  The  prod- 
ucts of  the  garden,  the  varieties  of  fish,  fowl,  game  and 
textures  made  it  of  unusual  interest. 

We   then   went   down   to  a  bridge   crossing   a   small 
river,  and  looking  up  and  down  the  stream  lined  on  either 


CHINA  35 

side  with  Japanese  cherry  trees  in  full  bloom  for  a  full 
half  mile,  both  up  and  down  the  river,  made  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  sights  that  we  have  ever  seen,  and  w'as 
indeed  worth  coming  many  miles  to  see.  It  will  be  long 
before  we  will  forget  the  day  spent  in  Nagasaki,  and 
our  last  day  spent  in  Japan,  or  Nippon,  as  the  Japanese 
call  the  island  group  of  the  Japanese  Empire. 

The  next  lap  of  our  journey — across  the  China  or 
Yellow  sea — brought  us  to  Shanghai,  China,  and  we  are 
now  in  the  Celestial  Empire. 

Tlie  city  of  Shanghai  is  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Whang- 
poo  river  about  thirteen  miles  above  its  mouth,  where  it 
empties  into  the  great  Yangtse-Kiang.  Our  steamer  did 
not  cross  the  bar  to  go  up  to  the  city,  but  we  embarked 
on  a  small  steam  launch  and  passed  up  the  river  through 
a  m\riad  of  craft  of  every  kind  and  make.  On  the  right 
side  as  we  ascended  were  anchored  probably  fifteen 
Chinese  war  vessels  mounted  with  cannon — such  as  were 
used  a  hundred  years  ago.  All  but  one  were  wooden 
ships  and  could  be  turned  into  kindling  wood  in  a  few 
minutes  by  a  modern  battleship.  Thev  were  used  prin- 
cipally, I  was  informed,  in  hunting  Chinese  pirates  that 
infest  the  rivers  and  shores  of  the  sea.  The  fishing 
schooners  are  of  very  curious  construction,  with  high 
prows  and  with  a  large  eye  on  each  side  of  the  prow, 
the  Chinese  believing  that  the  ship  can  see  if  it  has 
eyes,  and  can  thus  avoid  dangerous  places.  Numerous 
sam])ans  lined  the  shore,  in  which  the  Chinese  live  and 
seldom  go  on  shore — the  family  of  children  being  raised 
on  the  boat,  and  babies,  or  small  children,  being  tied  with 
a  small  rope  so  that  if  one   falls  into  the  sea  it  can  be 

3 


36  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

pulled  out  like  a  fish  on  the  end  of  the  line.  Along  the 
river  were  numerous  cruisers  and  war  vessels  of  different 
nations.  The  cruiser  Helena  represented  the  United 
States,  and  England,  Belgium,  Russia,  Austria  and  others 
each  had  a  war  ship  at  this  port.  The  land  up  the  river, 
on  either  side,  is  low  and  flat  and  is  protected  by  levees. 

Shanghai  consists  of  two  cities — the  new  one,  where 
foreigners  and  Chinese  live,  and  the  old  walled  city  of 
Shanghai,  where  Chinese  alone  reside.  The  combined 
population  approximates  four  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand people — two  hundred  thousand  in  the  new  and  two 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  in  the  old.  The  new  is  on 
the  river  front,  the  old  inland.  The  new  is  constructed 
of  fairly  wide  streets — well  paved,  narrow  sidewalks, 
with  bank,  hotel,  store  and  office  buildings  of  the  most 
modern  and  up-to-date  foreign — not  American — produc- 
tion. The  new  city  is  governed  by  the  Internationals, 
British,  Germans,  Americans  and  Japanese — the  French 
having  a  separate  quarter — and  a  fine  police  service  made 
up  of  East  Indians  in  turbans — British  soldiers,  and  one 
company  of  United  States,  and  some  Chinese — and  is  a 
very  orderly  and  well-governed  city.  It  has  a  very 
pretty,  well-kept  park  on  the  Bund  and  water  front,  but 
Chinese — except  servants  and  workmen —  are  not  allowed 
to  enjoy  its  privileges,  and  this  on  Chinese  soil.  There 
are  many  beautiful  homes  with  large,  handsome  and 
well-kept  grounds;  large  cotton  mills  and  other  factories, 
and  some  large  brick  college  buildings  where  young 
Chinese  boys  and  girls  are  being  educated  in  modern 
methods  and  taught  the  English  language. 

The  foreigners  here  are  very  exclusive,  and  in  their 
clubs  and  playgrounds  will  not  admit  Chinese  of  even 


CHINA  37 

the  highest  classes.  There  are  many  foreign  drug  and 
other  stores  in  the  new  town,  but  most  of  them  are  kept 
by  Chinese  merchants,  and  all  sales  are  based  upon  the 
Mexican  dollar,  in  circulation  here,  and  worth  less  than 
fifty  cents.  I  paid  at  the  Palace  Hotel  for  my  accom- 
modations for  myself  and  wife  sixteen  dollars  per  day, 
but  in  reality  less  than  eight  dollars  of  our  money. 

We  were  invited  to  attend  a  regular  Chinese  dinner  in 
the  dining  room  of  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Associa- 
tion building,  a  very  fine- structure  costing  probably  two 
hundred  thousand  dollars.  The  building  was  opened 
and  dedicated  with  an  address  by  President  Taft  when 
here  some  years  ago.  The  dinner  consisted  of  some 
thirty  courses.  Among  others,  the  famed  birds'  nests, 
shark's  fins,  pigeon  eggs  and  rare  and  curious  mixtures 
that  could  only  be  described  by  a  heathen  Chinee.  After 
the  dinner  addresses  were  made  by  the  president  of  the 
association  and  a  Christian  Chinaman  graduate  of  the 
University  of  California,  and  the  writer  was  selected  to 
reply  on  the  part  of  the  foreign  visitors.  I  spoke  for 
about  fifteen  minutes  on  my  impressions  of  China  and 
the  field  for  work  in  this  land  of  superstition  and  igno- 
rance, and  I  esteemed  it  a  special  privilege  to  make  an 
address  in  far-off  Asia  to  the  Chinese.  I  had  the  pleas- 
ure of  an  introduction  to  our  new  United  States  Judge 
here  who  succeeds  Judge  Wiltley.  Judge  Thayer  kindly 
invited  me  to  go  to  his  court  with  him  in  his  carriage — 
driven  by  a  Chinaman,  with  a  Chinese  footman  on  the 
seat  with  the  driver.  As  we  went  through  the  streets 
the  police  and  others  gave  way  before  us  as  though  some 
great  dignitaries  were  passing  by.  After  a  visit  to  the 
court  room,  the  judge  sent  me  back  to  my  hotel  alone, 


30087 


^ty 


38  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

with  the  same  equipage  in  which  we  came,  and  I  felt 
quite  elevated  with  the  dignity  of  my  position,  and  the 
people  in  passing  wondered,  no  doubt,  what  great  man 
it  was !  This  show  in  foreign  cities  is  customary  with 
foreigners  to  impress  the  people  here  with  their  impor- 
tance, and  adds,  no  doubt,  to  the  awe  in  which  officials  are 
held.  The  obedience  to  and  reverence  for  law  here  is 
very  much  greater  than  in  our  land. 

We  took  carriages  and  drove  into  the  country,  and 
on  the  way  we  passed  some  Chinese  prisoners  with  heads 
through  a  board  collar  about  two  and  one-half  feet 
square,  resting  on  the  shoulders,  guarded  by  the  police. 
The  prisoner  is  unable  to  reach  his  face  to  brush  off 
flies  or  other  insects,  and  further  to  humiliate  him  is 
kept  on  the  sidewalk  in  full  view  of  passersby.  This  is 
a  common  mode  of  punishment  in  China.  For  a  more 
serious  offense  they  beat  and  flay  the  prisoner,  and  for  a 
still  greater  one,  chop  ofif  the  head. 

On  our  way  into  the  country  we  passed  hundreds  of 
graves  and  many  unoccupied  coffins.  The  Chinese,  long 
before  death,  have  a  heavy  wooden  coffin  made  and  then 
place  it  out  in  the  field.  There  it  remains  uncovered,  or 
sometimes  covered  with  a  matting  of  straw.  When 
death  comes  the  body  is  embalmed,  placed  in  the  coffin 
resting  on  the  top  of  the  ground,  not  buried,  and  then  a 
brick  wall  is  built  around  it  and  a  tile  roof  made  over 
the  top ;  or  if  too  poor  to  afford  such  a  costly  monu- 
ment, then  a  mound  of  earth  is  thrown  over  it  and  there 
they  expect  it  to  remain  forever.  No  fear  of  grave  dig- 
gers looking  for  cadavers,  for  it  is  held  in  great  venera- 
tion, and  to  desecrate  a  tomb  of  an  ancestor  would  be 
considered  the  greatest  crime  that  could  be  committed, 


CHINA  39 

and  could  not  be  forg-iven  in  this,  or  in  the  world  to 
come.  These  graves  are  not  placed  in  close  proximity, 
but  are  scattered  all  over  the  field,  and  the  ground  is 
tilled  around  them,  but  the  tombs  are  never  disturbed. 
The  m.ound  around  the  coffin  often  covers  an  area  of 
twenty  feet,  and  thousands  of  acres  are  taken  from  culti- 
vation, where,  if  the  tombs  were  condensed,  they  could 
be  placed  in  a  ten-acre  field.  This  interferes  with  rail- 
way construction,  and  I  am  told  that  the  railway  line 
built  from  Shanghai  to  Noosung,  a  distance  of  thirteen 
miles,  was  torn  up,  time  and  again,  and  finally  the 
Chinese  government  bought  the  line  and  removed  it,  and 
all  because  it  ran  over  some  of  these  graves,  which  it 
could  not  help  doing  to  have  a  straight  line.  When  a 
piece  of  land  is  conveyed,  the  tomb  is  made  an  incum- 
brance on  it  so  as  to  prevent  its  removal. 

The  principal  productions  of  the  country  are  rice,  tea, 
barley  and  vegetables,  and  the  seas  abound  in  fish.  In 
going  out  of  the  mouth  of  the  great  river,  we  could  stand 
on  the  deck  of  our  steamer  and  count  fully  three  hundred 
fishing  schooners  in  sight  at  one  time. 

New  Shanghai  has  a  good  trolley  system  and  it  is  well 
patronized,  the  cars  being  divided  in  the  middle  with  a 
door,  the  front  part  for  first-class  and  the  rear  part  for 
second-class  passengers,  the  fares  of  the  latter  being 
about  one-half  of  the  former.  They  have  in  the  city 
automobiles,  carriages,  rikshas  and  wheelbarrows — not 
many  of  the  former,  a  good  many  rikshas  and  numerous 
wheelbarrows  for  both  men  and  goods.  I  saw  only  three 
Sedan  chairs,  the  old  means  of  conveyance,  and  these 
are  rapidly  passing  away.  On  a  wheelbarrow  one  man 
often  wheels  ten  persons,  and  the  fare  is  one  penny  each, 
or  one-half  cent  of  our  monev.     One  wheel  in  the  center 


40  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

and  a  board  on  either  side  on  which  the  passengers  sit, 
back  to  back,  and  when  they  are  not  equally  balanced, 
the  wheel  man  groans  and  struggles  to  keep  his  barrow 
from  uptipping.  Nearly  all  goods,  household  and  mer- 
chandise, are  conveyed  around  the  city  in  this  mode  of 
conveyance.  Coolie  Chinese  labor  costs  about  ten  cents 
per  day,  so  that  horses,  mules,  drays  and  wagons  are  not 
seen  on  the  street.  Human  pack  horses  with  poles  over 
their  shoulders,  carry  great  loads  sufficient  to  break 
down  an  army  mule,  and  you  wonder  how  they  can  en- 
dure it. 

The  old  city  of  Shanghai — an  old  cit\'  before  America 
was  discovered — is  a  walled  city  and  typical  of  old  China. 
There  are  some  eighteen  hundred  walled  cities  in  the 
empire,  which  contains  four  hundred  millions  of  people — 
about  ten  times  as  many  as  in  Japan — and  yet  Japan 
could  whip  great  big,  inert  Chnia  without  the  least 
trouble.  The  wall  is  about  sixteen  feet  high  and  is  about 
four  miles  in  extent. 

We  passed  through  the  north  gate  on  foot,  for  no 
vehicles  of  any  kind  can  enter  here,  as  the  streets,  in- 
cluding sidewalks,  are  not  more  than  eight  feet  wide 
and  thronged  with  crowds  of  humanity,  so  that  you 
have  to  wedge  your  way  through.  The  gate  makes  two 
or  three  turns  in  going  through  and  is  purposely  made 
very  crooked,  as  the  Chinese  believe  that  evil  spirits  can- 
not turn  corners  and  hence  are  unable  to  enter  the  gates 
of  the  city.  The  streets  are  equally  crooked,  and  for 
the  same  reason.  We  had  two  guides — Chinese — one 
before  and  one  ueliind,  for  if  one  were  lost  in  this  laby- 
rinth of  narrow  passageways,  it  would  be  very  difficult 
to  get  out.  The  city  is  one  teeniing  mass  of  filth,  no 
sewers,  and  stench  and  smell  that  makes  one  nauseous 


CHINA  41 

and  sick.  Beggars  on  every  corner  with  eyeless  sock- 
ets— without  noses,  ears,  arms  or  legs — mutilated  so 
that  almost  all  semblance  of  humanity  is  lost.  The 
poverty,  misery  and  want,  the  ignorance,  superstition  and 
filth  indescribable,  the  temples  and  temple  worship,  the 
acme  of  credulity  and  lack  of  reverence.  We  entered 
the  temples,  and  standing  before  them,  were  ugly  im- 
ages that  were  supposed  to  go  about  the  city  at  night 
and  drive  away  the  evil  spirits.  In  the  temples  were 
men  and  women  bowing  down  before  molten  images  of 
brass  and  cut  stone  and  calling  on  these  dumb  idols  for 
help,  and  in  cauldrons  burning  strips  of  paper  contain- 
ing prayers  and  invocations — and  this  and  more,  and 
yet  no  asylums  for  the  gibbering  insane  and  lunatics 
around  the  temple — no  refuges  for  the  deaf  and  dumb 
and  blind — no  infirmaries  for  the  poor  and  helpless — 
no  hospitals  for  the  sick  and  afflicted — no,  these  are  the 
products  of  Christian,  not  of  heathen  lands.  The  old 
city  is  a  subject  of  pity,  and  the  only  hope  is  for  the 
younger  generation  of  Chinese  to  get  inoculated  with  the 
spirit  of  progress  and  Christian  culture.  Of  all  the 
strange  and  curious  sights  in  old  Shanghai  I  cannot 
write. 

In  passing  on  to  this  city  of  Hongkong  we  passed 
through  between  China  and  the  Island  of  Formosa, 
formerly  belonging  to  China,  but  given  to  Japan  as 
indemnity  in  the  China-Japanese  war  of  1895  and  now 
governed  and  held  by  them.  This  city  is  about  982 
miles  southwest  of  Shanghai  and  is  on  an  island  owned 
and  held  by  Great  Britain.  The  city  of  Canton  is  some 
ninety  miles  up  the  river,  and  I  doubt  very  much  if  we 
will  have  the  time  to  go  up  there. 


STRAITS  SETTLEMENTS. 


Our  Correspondent  Visits  the  Cities  oe  Singapore 
AND  Penang,  Asia. 


Colombo,  Ceylon,  May  2nd,  1909. 

MY  last  letter  was  from  the  Island  of  Hongkong  in 
China,  a  British  concession.  It  is  a  little, 
mountainous  island  off  the  southern  coast  of 
China,  at  the  mouth  of  Pearl  river,  the  outlet  of  the 
great  trade  from  Canton,  a  very  large  and  important 
city  ninety  miles  up  the  river.  We  landed  at  the  old 
Chinese  city  of  Kowloon  across  the  river  and  went  over 
on  ferry  boats.  The  river  was  full  of  Chinese  craft — 
fishing  boats,  loaded  with  women  and  children — the 
latter  being  raised  on  the  boats.  Women  do  the  hard 
work  of  rowing  the  boats — the  men  working,  but  ap- 
parently giving  the  women  the  hardest  job.  I  saw  one 
woman,  with  a  baby  strapped  on  her  back,  and  with 
every  movement  of  the  oar  the  baby  would  go  up  and 
down   in  a  most  uncomfortable  way. 

The  island  is  very  rocky  and  rises  in  precipitous 
heights,  with  buildings  reaching  to  the  summits,  and 
when  lit  up  at  night,  with  electric  lights,  it  presents  a 
magnificent  sight.  This  is  one  of  the  best  harbors  in 
the  world  and  is  visited  every  year  by  more  than  sixty 
thousand  ships,  flying  the  flags  of  every  nation.  It  may 
be  said  that  this  is  the  point  where  the  trading  ships  of 
the  Occident  and  the  Orient  meet — to  exchange  the  mer- 
chandise of  the  East  and  West. 


'  .  \klii:\  ,    M  \i, Ai' 

(.'.    .\i.    Stim-i.\. 
Mkr-^     \.    I'..     i^.\Il■•K()^ 

.Mk--.     'J'.     W.     liknlliKKlMN 


iRi:.    I.ij  r    III   l\ 


T.   W.    l!KiiTii:-ki 

A       I-:.      I'oMKki.V 


STRAITS  SETTLEMENTS  45 

We  find  at  the  wharves  ships  and  steamers  from  Enj^- 
land,  Germany,  France,  Russia,  Italy,  Holland  and 
America — the  Pacific  Mail  and  other  American  ships 
endin<:^  their  journey  here — -and  from  Australia,  Java 
and  the  South  Sea  Islands. 

Mrs.  T').  and  I  were  carried  through  the  streets  of 
the  city  of  Hongkon.q'  in  Sedan  chairs  on  the  hacks  of 
four  Chinese  coolies,  nude  except  loin  cloths.  They  ran 
with  our  chairs,  giving  a  swinging  motion  not  altogether 
unpleasant,  but  not  so  comfortable  as  the  rikshas,  of 
Vi'liich  nrany  are  used  here— Ijut  because  of  the  steep 
hill  sides  the  chairs  are  required.  While  it  is  an  Eng- 
lish town  and  many  live  here — but  so  few  in  pro])ortion 
to  the  number  of  Chinese  that  it  is  really  a  Chinese 
city — minus  the  stench  and  filth  of  a  real  Chinatown. 
The  police  are  tan  black  from  East  India  or  Sikhs  from 
the  I'ritish  army,  and  order  is  well  preserved.  If  a 
Chinaman  does  not  move  on  when  told,  the  policeman 
raps  him  over  the  head  with  a  stout  wooden  cane  that 
commands  instant  obedience.  Here  we  purchased  our 
helmet  hats,  white  suits,  and  white  shoes,  for  our  voyage 
into  the  southern  seas. 

In  sailing  from  Hongkong  to  Singapore,  a  city  only 
one  degree  north  of  the  equator — as  far  south  as  Brazil 
in  South  America — far  below  the  Isthmus  of  Panama — 
we  go  nearl}-  south,  skirting  the  eastern  coast  of  the 
great  peninsula  known  as  Indio-China  and  Siam  and 
Malacca. 

At  Singapore  we  found  the  sun  rising  at  six  and  set- 
ting at  six  o'clock — making  a  day  and  night  of  equal 
length,  and  this  throughout  the  entire  year.  The  people 
are  largely  black  Malays — the  skins  as  dark  as  polished 


46  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

ebony.  We  took — Mrs.  B.  and  I — a  double  riksha, 
pulled  by  a  black  man,  with  only  a  loin-cloth  for  cloth- 
ing, and  rode  for  more  than  an  hour  through  the  streets 
of  the  city,  at  ten  p.  m.,  every  shop  being  open  and 
illuminated — the  residents  sitting  out  in  front  of  their 
little  homes,  with  all  shades  of  fantastic  wearing  apparel, 
and  some  with  almost  no  clothing  at  all — the  man  on  the 
trot  all  the  time  and  covering  several  miles  of  city  streets. 
We  took  a  carriage  in  the  morning,  drawn  by  a  little 
pony,  and  went  out  to  the  botanical  gardens,  filled  with 
rare  and  curious  plants.  We  saw  the  black  pepper  of 
commerce,  growing  on  a  vine  that  looks  like  our  hop 
vine.  They  grow  bananas,  cocoanuts  and  other  tropical 
fruits.  The  carting  is  done  on  a  two-wheeled  cart  drawn 
by  two  buffalo  bullocks,  such  as  are  often  seen  in  our 
zoological  gardens — with  a  large  hump  on  the  fore- 
shoulder  and  very  long  horns,  straight  up  in  the  air. 
The  houses — fine  dwellings — have  no  sash  nor  glass  in 
the  windows — only  shutters  to  close  during  the  heat  of 
the  day  and  wholly  open  at  night.  The  climate  is  the 
same  throughout  the  year — always  hot  and  never  cold  at 
any  time  of  the  year.  White  suits,  helmet  hats,  white 
shoes  and  negligee  shirts  are  worn  by  the  Europeans 
residing  or  visiting  here.  This  is  called  the  Straits- 
Settlement  and  is  controlled  by  Great  Britain,  and  the 
trading  is  largely  done  by  the  English.  We  visited  St. 
Andrews  church  here,  a  very  handsome  edifice  of  the 
Church  of  England.  British  soldiers  and  Sikh  police 
preserve  order  and  rule  the  motley  class  of  Malays, 
Chinese,  Japanese,  Johorese  and  other  classes  living  here, 
and  this  is  said  to  be  a  great  resort  for  men  under  as- 
sumed names  who  have  left  their  native  lands  for  the 
good  of  the  lands  from  which  they  came. 


STRAITS  SETTLEMENTS  47 

We  are  now  half-way  around  the  world  from  Wapa- 
koneta,  which  is  the  center  of  the  universe — for  if  you 
will  go  out  any  clear  morning  you  will  observe  that  the 
horizon  comes  down  equally  distant  on  all  sides.  When 
our  sun  of  today  is  setting  and  the  day  is  finished,  your 
sun  is  just  coming  up  over  the  eastern  horizon.  While 
we  have  passed  through  more  than  ten  thousand  miles 
of  seas — through  storm  and  stress — fine  weather  and  ill 
weather — yet  here  at  the  equator  the  seas  are  as  smootli 
as  glass,  with  scarcely  a  ripple,  and  like  sheeted  silver 
on  a  polished  mirror,  a  sight  such  as  we  have  never 
seen  before.  We  have  to  endure  much  heat  and  discom- 
fort, but  how  can  we  see  the  world  sitting  down  at  home 
by  our  own  comfortable  fireside?  And  it  is  worth  all 
that  it  costs  in  time,  money  and  hardship,  to  get  a 
broader  vision  of  life  and  to  see  how  people  live. 

At  Penang,  a  very  prosperous  city,  up  through  the 
Malacca  Straits,  with  the  peninsula  on  one  side  and  the 
Island  of  Sumatra  on  the  other,  we  saw  many  things  of 
unusual  interest.  The  greatest  cocoanut  groves  that 
we  have  ever  seen,  and  cocoanuts  in  huge  piles  like  wood. 
Here  our  conveyance  was  a  large  automobile,  our  chauf- 
feur a  Chinaman,  and  we  sailed  through  the  streets  of 
Penang  like  mad — the  city  here  not  having  any  speed 
ordinances — and  over  the  finest  of  roads  out  to  the  city 
park  and  botaiiical  gardens — with  a  waterfall  dropping 
down  a  height  of  some  five  hundred  feet. 

There  is  one  thing  in  passing  that  I  must  say  of  the 
English — that  in  all  this  country  she  builds  splendid 
roadways  and  preserves  order.  The  Sikh  serves  not 
only  as  policeman  but  also  as  judge.  If  you  have  a  dis- 
pute with  a  native  as  to  riksha,  carriage,  or  other  matters, 
he  hears  your  case  ])aiiently  and  if  you  are  in  the  right 
he  says  to  the  native,  'T^love  on,"  and  that  settles  it — 


48  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

no  delay  of  justice,  no  lawyers  to  intervene,  but  short, 
quick  and  speedy  justice.  If  you  are  in  the  wrong  he 
tells  you  so,  and  you  remedy  it,  and  all  is  well.  There 
are  many  tigers  here  and  reptiles — in  fact  we  have  some 
on  our  boat,  caged,  of  course,  going  to  Europe  for 
zoological  gardens.  One  of  our  party  went  out  on  a 
trolley  car  some  four  miles  from  Singapore  and  saw  a 
tiger  near  the  track.  The  houses  in  the  country  are  up 
on  poles  some  six  feet  or  more  above  the  ground,  to 
protect  from  reptiles  and  wild  animals. 

We  visited  an  old  Chinese  Buddhist  temple  at  Penang 
w^ay  up  on  top  of  a  hill,  with  more  than  two  hundred 
stone  steps  in  making  the  ascent,  but  very  beautiful  and 
costly.  The  climb  up  is  a  very  hard  one,  and  I  thought 
that  only  devotees  would  ascend  more  than  once.  It 
was  of  very  rare  and  curious  workmanship,  with  the 
Sacred  Elephant  and  the  Chinese  Dragon  in  evidence. 
There  are  many  wealthy  Chinese  merchants  down  in 
these  Straits-Settlements,  and  as  sharp  and  shrewd 
tradesmen  they  are  hard  to  excel.  Thousands  of  acres 
here  at  Penang  are  planted  to  the  cocoanut  and  the  trees 
are  very  productive.  We  took  on  a  very  large  cargo  of 
tobacco  from  the  island  of  Java,  bound  for  Holland.  We 
saw  in  one  grove  a  band  of  black  fellows — probably  ten 
in  number — and  one  yard  of  calico  would  have  furnished 
the  entire  number  with  clothing.  Modesty  in  attire  is 
not  one  of  the  prevailing  virtues. 

In  crossing  over  from  Penang  to  this  city  we  go  up 
to  the  end  of  the  Straits,  then  cross  a  portion  of  the 
Bay  of  Bengal  and  thence  into  the  Indian  sea.  We  have 
left  the  smooth  seas  of  the  South  and  are  liable  in  cross- 
ing over  to  Aden,  Arabia,  to  encounter  one  of  the  great 
monsoons. 


CEYLON. 

Our  Correspondent  Visits  the  City  of  Cou^mbo  on 
THE  Island  of  Ceylon — Shipping  in  the  Harbor 
Is  Protected  From  Monsoons  by  a  Breakwater 
Costing  Twelve  Million  Dollars — Island  of 
Great  Value  and  Historical  Interest. 


Aden,  Arabia,  May  loth,  1909. 

THE  city  of  Colombo  on  the  island  of  Ceylon,  just 
south  of  India,  is  a  very  interesting-  citv.  As  you 
approach  it  from  the  sea  at  night  you  have  a  very 
charming  view  spread  before  you.  To  the  south  the 
first  flashes  of  electric  light  are  from  the  Mount  Lavinia 
Hotel,  formerly  the  vice-regal  residence,  high  on  a  point 
above  the  sea  and  surrounded  with  tropical  shrubbery 
and  about  seven  miles  out  from  the  city.  The  next 
points  of  light  are  from  the  Galle  Face  Hotel  on  the 
beach,  fronting  a  large  open  space  of  park,  and  then 
follows  along  the  beach  a  row  of  electric  lights,  going 
down  to  the  landing  ])lace — probably  one  hundred  in 
number — which  makes  a  very  brilliant  display  of  light  as 
seen  from  the  ship  at  sea. 

When  we  come  nearer  we  enter  the  great  concrete 
breakwater,  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  fully 
forty  feet  in  depth  and  probably  twenty  feet  at  the  base 
and  eight  feet  wide  on  top,  and  costing  over  twelve  mil- 
lions of  dollars.  This  is  to  protect  shipping  from  the 
monsoons  that  come  with  terrific  force  in  certain  seasons 
of  the  year  and  dash  upon  this  rocky  breast.  The 
harbor  was  full  of  ships  from  all  luiropean,  African  and 


50  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

Asiatic  nations.  Two  very  large  and  beautiful  ships  of 
war  represented  Germany,  and  our  ship  being  one  of  that 
nation,  they  gave  us  salutes  and  huzzas  as  we  came  into 
the  harbor,  and  the  German  admiral  in  command  came 
on  board  to  welcome  some  friends.  We  went  on  land 
by  launch,  as  our  vessel  anchored  in  the  harbor,  there 
being  no  pier  or  wharf  for  large  vessels.  Climbing 
down  steps  on  the  side  of  our  steamer,  under  the  rays 
of  electric  light,  we  entered  among  the  maze  of  ships 
and  reached  the  port  and  our  hotel— the  Oriental — 
nearby,  at  eleven  p.m. 

The  climate  is  very  hot  and  sultry  at  night,  and  when 
shown  to  our  room  by  a  Hindoo  servant  we  found  on 
the  ceiling  two  rings  with  punkas  about  five  feet  long, 
flying  back  and  forth  to  make  a  breeze  in  the  room — 
propelled  by  electricity.  There  were  two  large  windows 
in  the  room,  but  no  sash  nor  glass.  Instead  were  two 
large  latticed  blinds,  full  width  and  height  of  the  win- 
dow frame  and  hung  on  a  pivot  below  and  above — thus 
swinging  open  and  shut — giving  two  full  open  windows 
to  the  street  in  front.  Two  beds  in  the  room  with 
high  iron  posts  on  which  were  suspended  mosquito  net- 
ting, and  you  were  completely  enclosed  in  a  cage  to  shut 
out  flies  and  mosquitos.  There  we  slept  our  first  sleep 
on  land  for  many  days. 

The  island  of  Ceylon  is  one  of  great  value  and  of 
much  historical  interest.  Before  our  forefathers  settled 
in  England  and  before  Greece  and  Rome  were  reached, 
the  great  Aryan  race  of  people  came  down  here — only 
five  degrees  north  of  the  equator  and  far  below  the 
Tropic  of  Cancer — and  settled  on  this  island,  driving 
out,  subduing  or  plundering  the  aboriginal  inhabitants 
and  holding  and  governing  the  island  until  the  Dravidians 


CEYLON  51 

came  down  from  India  and  overcame  and  governed 
them.  The  Aryan  Sinhalese  who  settled  here  have  since 
lived  here  and  bear  the  strong"  stamp  of  the  vigorous 
race  from  w^hich  they  sprung.  While  dark-skinned,  they 
are  straight  as  arrows,  carrying  themselves  erect  and 
with  great  stateliness — with  high  foreheads  and  piercing 
eyes — a  very  intelligent  race  of  people.  We  had  one 
who  drove  our  carriage  and  acted  as  guide  as  well. 
Not  only  did  he  point  out  the  buildings,  parks  and 
places  of  interest,  but  he  could  name  almost  every  tree, 
shrub  and  plant  and  could  point  out  Mohammedan, 
Hindoo,  Sinhalese  and  other  races  and  characteristics 
of  each. 

Ab(^ut  the  beginning  of  the  sixteenth  century,  the 
Portuguese  conquered  the  greater  part  of  the  island,  hold- 
ing the  coast  towns,  and  in  turn  were  driven  out  by  the 
Dutch  and  then  again  by  the  English  just  after  the  close 
of  our  revolutionary  war,  since  w^hich  time  the  liritish 
flag  has  been  at  the  masthead  of  this  far-off  Isle  of 
Spices. 

All  kinds  of  religions  prevail  here — temples  of  Buddha, 
Mohammedan  mosques,  Portuguese,  Dutch,  English, 
Baptist  and  Wesleyan  churches — and  as  we  were  here 
on  Sunday  we  saw  them  all  going  to  church  in  their 
various  and  picturesque  costumes — some  of  the  natives 
with  jewelry  and  the  balance  largely  covered  by  their 
complexions.  The  production  of  the  island  are  Ceylon 
tea,  cocoanuts,  bread  fruit,  betel-pepper,  cinnamon — 
which  we  broke  up  and  tasted — the  jak  fruit,  growing 
in  large  balls  suspended  from  the  limbs  of  trees  and  only 
eaten  by  the  natives — pineapples,  and  now  a  great  quan- 
tity of  rubber — which  is  being  planted  in  large  acreage  to 


52  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

supply  the  great  market  since  the  automobile  has  created 
so  large  a  demand. 

Children  go  almost  if  not  altogether  naked,  men  wear 
only  the  loin  cloths  and  many  women  are  bare  to  the 
waist,  the  weather  being  so  oppressively  hot  near  the 
coast  that  clothing  can  only  be  endured  by  Europeans 
and  the  higher  classes  of  the  natives,  and  then  almost 
altogether  in  white  with  sun  hats  and  shades.  Natives 
of  the  coolie  class  always  address  you  as  master — but 
if  they  break  you  a  shrub,  show  you  a  building,  hand 
you  a  flower,  or  do  you  the  least  service,  it  is  to  entice 
you  to  give  them  a  gratuity  in  return.  The  little  black 
boys  run  after  your  carriage  and  appeal  to  you  in  be- 
half of  a  sick  father  or  mother,  or  sometimes,  if  you  are 
old  like  us,  say  grandfather  or  grandmother  is  sick  and 
helpless  and  for  them  they  are  begging,  or  they  will 
throw  you  a  kiss  from  their  brown  lips  for  a  like  con- 
sideration. Beggars,  beggars  everywhere,  and  yet  in  a 
land  literally  flowing  with  milk  and  honey. 

This  has  been  claimed  as  the  literal  garden  of  Eden, 
and  they  point  out  a  high  mountain  peak  some  seven 
thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  called  Adam's  peak,  on  the 
top  of  which,  indented  in  the  rocks,  are  prints,  claimed 
by  the  Mohammedans  as  the  footprints  of  the  father  of 
the  human  race. 

We  did  not  put  credence  enough  in  the  fable  to  go 
up  and  see  these  holy  marks  of  ages  agone. 

Over  in  Arabia,  from  which  this  letter  is  mailed,  is 
another  garden  of  Eden,  the  city  of  Aden — leaving  off 
the  A,  substituting  E,  making  Eden,  and  as  it  is  often 
two  years  without  rain,  the  sun  is  certainly  a  flaming 
sword  to  keep  out  the  human  race  from  the  tilling  of 
the  garden. 


CKYLON  53 

We  drove  out  to  Mount  Lavinia  for  breakfast  and 
passed  the  former  camp  of  the  Boer  prisoners  of  war 
who  were  brought  here  from  South  Africa  and  held  imtil 
the  close  of  the  war  and  afterward  until  swearing  al- 
legiance to  the  Union  Jack.  This  was  the  land  of  their 
forefathers,  for  the  Dutch-Hollanders,  not  Germans, 
possessed  the  island  for  more  than  a  century  and  built 
the  dams,  reservoirs  and  irrigation  canals  still  existing 
on  the  island,  and  which  make  the  intensive  farming  here 
so  productive  and  valuable.  The  roadwa}s  are  fine  and 
w-ell  macadamized.  The  streets  are  supplied  with 
hydrants  of  the  best  of  water,  which  the  natives  use 
freely,  as  we  often  saw  them  taking  their  morning  bath 
in   front  of  a  hydrant  of  numing  water. 

The  cinnamon  gardens  at  Colombo  are  being  cut  up 
into  villa  lots  and  covered  with  bungalows,  and  will  soon 
be  a  thing  of  the  past.  Commercialism  often  desecrates 
the  beauty  spots  of  earth,  and  the  over-dropping  water- 
fall is  soon  drained  to  turn  the  wheel  that  revolves  the 
dynamo  that  sends  off  its  electric  power  for  the  factory, 
railway  or  electric  light.  Soon  utilitarianism  will  over- 
come the  aesthetic  in  this  rushing  age  of  ours. 

In  crossing  the  bridge  toward  the  citv  from  the  Boer 
camj) — where  we  pay  sixty  cents  toll  for  the  privilege — 
we  pass  Slave  island,  a  name  given  by  the  Dutch,  who 
used  it  as  a  prison  for  the  state  slaves  who  were  com- 
pelled to  serve  them,  and  near  where  their  descendants, 
the  Ijoers,  were  imprisoned — a  sort  of  retributive  justice 
— the  children  paying  for  the  sin  of  the  fathers. 

These  random  notes  picked  up  by  the  wayside  will 
soon  end,  for  when  we  reach  the  shores  of  Europe, 
where  so  many  travel,  they  will  cease  to  be  of  interest. 

Near  our  hotel  at  the  landing  stands  a  marble  statue 
of   Queen   Victoria — a  beautiful    work   of   art — 1(^   com- 

4 


54  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

memorate  her  diamond  jubilee,  and  only  a  block  away 
are  the  beautiful  palace  Gordon  gardens  of  the  gover- 
nor's residence.  The  buildings  in  the  vicinity  are  mod- 
ern structures  of  European  types — except  the  pillared 
porticos  for  shade  and  the  open  windows  for  air.  The 
transportation  is  on  carts  drawn  by  Indian  humped  bulls, 
with  curious  tops  made  of  wicker-work — something  in 
the  shape  of  the  old  moving  wagon,  projecting  far  over 
top  and  rear.  Tea  chests  are  carried  on  poles  on  the 
backs  of  dusky  Tamil  or  Sinhalese  coolies,  and  they  go 
rushing  by  crying  like  mad  for  the  passer-by  to  get  out 
of  the  way. 

The  fishing  or  porterage  boats  of  the  Sinhalese  are 
the  queerest  ever  seen.  They  are  very  long  and  slender 
and  supported  by  an  outrigger  about  six  feet  away  at- 
tached by  two  poles  or  arms,  and  with  sails  attached 
they  fairly  fly  before  the  wind,  and  often  go  out  twenty 
miles  from  shore  in  these  apparently  frail  and  slender 
structures — but  they  are  said  to  be  wonderfully  strong 
and  safe  against  storm  and  wind. 

In  passing  along  the  streets  a  very  curious  and  novel 
scene  is  presented  by  the  barber  shop.  The  barber  sits 
down  on  his  feet,  crossed  under  him,  while  his  patient, 
customer  or  subject  of  torture  sits  in  front  facing  the 
barber,  and  then  the  barber,  without  lather  or  soap, 
gives  the  subject  a  dry  shave  by  a  sort  of  rasping  off — 
his  hirsute  adornments  falling  around  him.  It  looks 
like  a  torture  chamber  or  shed,  as  it  is  always  out  in 
the  open.  The  polished  and  curious  comb  on  the  top 
of  the  head  is  the  adornment  of  some  of  the  aristocratic 
natives  here. 

In  crossing  over  from  Colombo  to  Aden,  a  journey  of 
more  than  two  thousand   four  hundred  miles  by  sea — 


CEYLON  55 

crossing  the  Indian  Ocean  and  Arabian  Sea — we  for- 
tunately missed  the  expected  monsoon  and  had  a  quiet 
sea,  but  the  water  in  front  of  Aden  is  so  shallow  that 
we  had  to  anchor  nearly  two  miles  from  the  landing. 

Tlie  city  of  Aden  is  the  commercial  port  of  Arabia — 
a  great  place  for  the  sale  of  ostrich  feathers — Arabian 
horses  of  great  fame — where  caravans  of  camels  come 
in  from  the  desert,  laden  with  the  products  of  the  interior. 
The  British  who  control  this  port  keep  a  large  force  of 
soldiers  here  and  have  quite  a  time  preserving  order 
among  the  thieving  natives  of  the  desert. 

We  have  crossed  the  Indian  Ocean,  the  lower  side  of 
the  .Arabian  Sea,  and  will  soon  enter  the  Red  Sea,  where 
Moses  and  the  Israelites  crossed  dry  shod  and  where 
Pharaoh  and  his  horsemen  and  chariots  were  over- 
whehned  by  the  returning  floods.  Near  the  Red  Sea — 
in  Arabia — only  seventy  miles  away,  is  the  city  of  Mecca, 
where  every  pious  Mohammedan  is  expected  to  make  a 
pilgrimage — but  as  we  have  seen  nothing  yet  to  con- 
vince us  that  any  civilization  of  these  strange  gods  pro- 
duces the  equal  in  honor,  justice,  honesty  and  right  living, 
to  compare  with  that  of  Christianity,  we  shall  not  stop 
on  our  way  to  make  a  journey  to  Mecca. 

As  we  travel  around  this  world  of  ours,  one  prominent 
fact  faces  us  everywhere,  and  that  is  the  dominion  of 
Great  Britain,  on  which  the  sun  never  sets — and  it  is 
only  because  of  the  benignant  rule  of  this  mighty  empire 
that  we  find  social  order  and  safety  in  travel  in  these 
out-of-the-way  places  of  the  earth.  Wherever  the  British 
flag  goes,  a  higher  civilization  springs  forth — common 
honesty  is  taught — the  cross  of  Christ  is  honored,  and 
while  other  religions  are  tolerated  and  not  abolished  by 
physical  force,  the  religion  of  Jesus  is  preached  and  will 
eventuallv  overcome. 


ARABIA. 

Our  Corre^spondent  Stops  at  Aden,  One  of  the  Hot- 
test OF  THE  Inhabited  Places  on  Earth — Then 
Journeys  Through  the  Red  Sea,  Passing  Over 
THE  Place  Where  Ti-ie  Israelites  Under  Moses 
Passed  Through  Dry  Shod  and  the  Egyptians 
Following  Were  Overwhelmed  by  the  Return- 
ing Waters. 


Port  Said,  Egypt,  May  14th,  1909. 

AT  Aden,  Arabia,  our  vessel  anchored  more  than  a 
mile  at  sea.  In  order  to  go  on  shore,  some  half 
dozen  of  us  hired  a  canoe — with  some  six  black 
naked  Somalese  from  Somaliland,  Northeast  Africa,  to 
do  the  rowing — and  went  on  shore  to  see  the  village  of 
Aden.  At  the  landing  we  took  a  carriage  and  visited  the 
Arabian  market  place  and  passed  through  narrow  streets, 
with  low,  flat-roofed  houses  made  of  sun-dried  brick 
and  filled  to  overflowing  with  women  and  children.  All 
the  carting  here  is  done  with  camels.  You  see  them 
drawing  barrels  of  water,  carts  of  sand  and  all  kinds  of 
merchandise.  You  also  see  them  ridden  by  Arabs  com- 
ing in  from  the  desert.  The  costume  of  the  Arab,  with 
his  turban  and  bright  colored  sashes  and  coverings,  is 
quite  different  from  anything  that  wc  have  thus  far  seen. 
I  saw  them — all  Mohammedans — at  prayer,  with  the  face 
turned  toward  Mecca — and  sitting  in  posture— the  head 
striking  the  ground  in  front — and  when  the  hour  of 
prayer  comes  all  else  must  give  way  to  this  form  of 
devotion.     They  may  be  very  pious  when  at  prayer,  but 


ARABIA  57 

as  soon  as  the  prayer  is  ended  they  can  cheat  you  in  a 
bargain  or  cut  your  tliroat  for  being-  a  heathen  Christian 
instead  of  a  follower  of  Mahomet — for  "Allah  alone  is 
God  and  Mahomet  is  his  prophet." 

When  we  returned  to  our  steamer  the  sea  was  quite 
rough  and  our  frail  canoe  would  go  up  and  down  with 
the  swell  of  the  waves  and  would  sometimes  cover  us 
with  water.  The  day  was  exceedingly  hot  and  I  almost 
succumbed  under  the  heat,  but  was  glad  that  I  went  on 
shore  to  see  this  new  feature  of  desert  life. 

It  had  not  rained  here  for  more  than  a  year,  and  the 
heat  is  so  intense  and  stifling  that  the  soldiers  stationed 
in  large  British  barracks  here  become  so  homesick  that 
the  government  changes  them  every  six  months  to  pre- 
vent suicide.  It  is  certainly  the  extreme  of  desolation 
here  amid  the  parched  sands  of  Arabia. 

Our  journey  next  led  through  the  Red  Sea,  with  Africa 
on  the  left  and  Asia  on  the  right — liritish  Somaliland  on 
one  side  and  Arabia  on  the  other.  We  passed  not  far 
from  Mecca,  the  birthplace  of  Mahomet  and  toward 
which  devout  Moslems  incline  the  body  in  prayer.  We 
also  pass  over  the  place  described  in  the  fourteenth  chap- 
ter of  Exodus — where  the  Israelites  under  Moses  passed 
through  dry  shod  and  the  Egyptians  following  them 
were  overwhelmed  by  the  returning  waters.  At  Suez 
we  are  near  Moses  spring,  where  the  bitter  waters  of 
^larah  were  turned  sweet,  and  where  we  enter  the 
famous  Suez  canal. 

This  was  an  immense  undertaking  and  cost  one  hun- 
dred millions  of  dollars  to  build.  The  canal  is  one  hun- 
dred miles  long — between  Suez  on  the  south  and 
Port   Said  on  the   north.     The  tolls  are  immense.     The 


58  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

purser  of  our  steamer  told  me  that  he  would  have  to  pay 
ten  thousand  dollars  toll  to  take  our  vessel  through  the 
canal.  Many  places  we  can  travel  at  the  rate  of  five 
miles  only  per  hour  on  account  of  washing  the  banks  of 
the  canal.  The  remains  of  an  old  canal  existed  here  be- 
fore the  Christian  era  and  is  described  by  Herodotus. 
Mt.  Sinai  is  not  far  from  here,  and  the  land  of  Goshen 
lines  the  west  bank  of  the  canal,  and  very  large  founda- 
tions of  what  were  supposed  to  be  Joseph's  granary — 
storing  in  years  of  plenty  for  the  years  of  famine  to 
come — are  near  at  hand.  Surely  this  is  the  land  of  Bible 
history  and  is  well  worth  seeing — even  if  you  have  to 
endure  much  hardship  to  see  it. 

We  leave  here  on  the  train  for  Cairo,  Egypt — being 
as  far  south  as  New  Orleans — distance  by  rail  one  hun- 
dred and  forty-five  miles.  The  train  passes  through  the 
land  of  Goshen,  giving  us  a  view  of  the  country  once 
tilled  by  the  Israelites  as  bondmen  under  Egyptian  task- 
n-yasters — ^the  passage  of  the  Red  Sea  being  farther  south. 
The  land,  like  that  of  Southern  California,  is  barren  and 
desolate,  without  water — but  under  an  irrigating  system 
is  very  fruitful — and  the  waters  of  the  Nile  have  made 
this  land  a  vast  granary  for  many,  many  centuries.  The 
Suez  canal  has  added  greatly  to  the  wealth  of  the  country 
here,  and  while  more  than  twice  as  long  as  the  Panama 
canal,  its  cost  of  building  was  much  less  on  account  of 
the  comparatively  level  country  through  which  it  passed 
and  the  number  of  lakes  on  the  line  of  the  canal. 

After  a  few  days  spent  at  Cairo  and  vicinity  we  shall 
cross  over  to  Joppa  and  make  a  journey  through 
Palestine  and  visit  some  of  the  places  made  interesting 
in  Bible  study. 


EGYPT  AND  PALESTINE. 


Our  Correspondent  Makks  a  Trip  Through  the 
Land  of  Goshen,  in  Egypt — Visits  the  City  of 
Cairo,  the  Ruins  of  Memphis,  and  the  Great 
Pyramids — Then  Takes  a  Steamer  for  Joppa, 
THE  Seaport  of  Jerusalem,  and  Visits  the  Holy 
Land — Takes  a  Rath  in  the  Dead  Sea,  and 
Jumps  Into  the  River  Jordan. 


Alexandria,  May  26th,  1909. 

M\'  last  letter  from  T^ort  Said,  at  the  north  entrance 
of  the  Suez  canal,  left  us  starting  on  the  Egyp- 
tian railway — through  the  land  of  Goshen  to  the 
citv  of  Cairo — one  hundred  and  forty-five  miles  distant. 
In  crossing  this  plain,  of  which  the  greater  part  is  very 
fertile  land  and  intensively  cultivated,  we  observed  many 
unfamiliar  methods  of  farming.  The  water  from  the  ir- 
rigating canals  was  pumped  up  on  the  land  from  wells 
and  sluices  by  two  wheels,  one  with  pivots  fitted  into 
sockets  in  another  wheel  with  sort  of  buckets,  and  the 
general  motive  power  was  camels — with  a  lever — going 
around  in  a  circle  and  thus  bringing  the  water  up  to 
the  level  of  the  land.  We  passed  great  caravans  of 
camels  on  the  highways,  loaded  with  people,  goods  and 
all  manner  of  merchandise.  While  the  Egyptians  have 
horses  and  mules  and  some  buffalo  cows,  the  great  work 
is  done  by  the  patient,  burden-bearing  camel.  The 
plows  used  had  wooden  shares,  beams  and  handles,  just 
like  the  crooked,  wooden  thing  used  nearly  two  thou- 
sand years  ago  in  the  time  of  Christ.  I  did  not  see  one 
gasoline  engine  pumjiing  water — which  would  have  done 


6o  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

more  work  than  twenty  camels.  Not  one  modern  plow 
— and  the  barley  harvest  being  on,  was  being  cut  with 
sickles.  The  lots  are  small ;  one  man  and  his  family — 
wife  and  children — working  together  in  the  field,  cultivate 
about  one  or  two  acres  of  land.  The  crops  raised  are 
barley,  some  Indian  corn,  more  Egyptian  corn,  and 
garden  products  of  all  kinds.  While  the  valley  of  the 
Nile  has  been  cultivated  for  many  thousand  years,  it  is 
still  very  fertile  and  productive.  The  Nile  annually  over- 
flows its  banks  and  makes  a  sedimentary  deposit  that 
enriches  the  land. 

The  city  of  Cairo  has  about  six  hundred  thousand 
people  and  is  a  very  old  and  interesting  city.  It  is  held 
in  a  suzerainty  by  Great  Britain,  with  a  nominal  control 
by  the  Khedive.  We  went  on  top  of  the  citadel — on 
the  top  of  a  Mohammedan  mosque— and  found  "Tommy 
Atkins",  the  British  soldier,  in  full  control.  They  had 
cannon  mounted,  commanding  the  entire  city,  and  in 
case  of  an  uprising  the  entire  city  could  be  swept  by  the 
guns  from  this  high  position.  The  mosque  below  was 
probably  the  finest  in  Cairo.  The  men  occupy  the  ground 
floor  and  the  w^omen  occupy  galleries,  so  as  not  to  be 
seen  by  men.  The  women,  except  the  lower  classes,  go 
veiled,  with  peep-holes  for  the  eyes,  and  wear  a  most 
intolerable  costume  for  warm  weather.  I  should  think 
that  the  women  would  rebel  against  this  relic  of  bar- 
barism and  assert  their  womanhood.  It  is  almost  as  de- 
grading and  brutal  as  the  foot-binding  of  the  heathen 
women  of  China. 

Tiic  weather  here  was  intolerably  hot  and  the  flies  the 
most  pestiferous  of  any  that  I  ever  encountered.  Of 
course  we  took  a  carriage  and  drove  out  to  the  I^yramids, 
and  after  coming  near  we  alighted   from   our  carriages 


EGYPT   AND    PALESTINE  63 

and  then  Mrs.  lirotlicrton  and  myself  mounted  camels 
and  rode  around  to  the  Sphynx  and  up  to  the  Pyramids. 
It  was  our  first  camel  ride,  and  with  Arabs  on  every 
side  clamorinfj  for  "backsheesh.''  is  was  a  novel  experi- 
ence. The  next  day  we  took  a  steam  yacht  and  went  up 
the  Nile  some  fifteen  miles  and  saw  many  places  of  in- 
terest, passing-  on  the  way  the  place  where  Moses  was 
said  to  have  been  taken  from  the  bullrushes  by  Pharaoh's 
daug-hter. 

We  took  small  mules  from  our  landing-  place  on  the 
Xile  and  rode  eight  miles  inland,  visiting  the  ruins  of 
the  old  city  of  Memphis,  the  pyramids  of  Sakhara,  the 
tombs  of  the  sacred  bulls,  and  some  inland  Egyptian 
villages.  The  sixteen-mile  ride  there  and  back  over  the 
hot  sands  of  the  arid  plains  was  a  very  hard  one,  the 
little  donkeys  going  on  the  trot  or  gallop  most  of  the 
time,  but  the  compensation  was  well  worth  the  test  of 
endurance — we  saw  the  actual  life  in  an  out-of-the-way 
place,  and  he  who  travels  to  see  the  world  nuist  expect  to 
endure   much   on   the   journey. 

We  went  from  Cairo  by  rail  to  Port  Said  and  there 
took  an  Austrian  Lloyd  steamer  for  Jop])a,  the  seaport 
of  Jerusalem  on  the  Mediterranean  sea.  Our  vessel 
anchored  out  at  sea  and  we  were  landed  in  small  boats. 
The  coast  is  very  rocky  and  often  ships  cannot  make  the 
port  here  on  account  of  storms.  In  Joppa — the  old  town 
where  Jonah  sailed  away  from  dut\' — where  the  timbers 
of  Solomon's  temple  were  brought  from  the  cedars  of 
Lebanon — we  were  shown  the  home  i)lace  of  Tabitha  or 
Dorcas,  whom  J'eter  raised  from  the  dead,  and  where  a 
Christian  church  now  stands,  also  the  old  fiat-roofed 
house  of  Simon  the  Tanner,  on  the  seaside — where  Peter 
resided   when  he   saw  the  vision   of  the   sheet   with   all 


64  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

manner  of  four-footed  beasts  and  was  commanded  to 
kill,  slay  and  eat — and  in  response  went  to  meet  the 
Centurian,  a  gentile  and  not  of  the  chosen  sect. 

We  went  up  to  Jerusalem,  twenty-five  hundred  feet 
above  the  sea — passing  through  the  plains  of  Sharon, 
dotted  with  orange,  lemon,  and  olive  groves  and  fields 
of  flowing  grain — up  by  the  pool — still  shown — where 
Philip  baptized  the  eunuch  because  there  was  water  there 
— Lydda,  where  Peter  stopped  on  the  way  to  Joppa — 
through  the  land  of  Samson — the  home  of  Joseph  of 
Arimathea,  and  many  other  interesting  places.  In  Jeru- 
salem we  saw  the  usual  sites  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre — 
one  inside  of  the  old  walls  and  the  Gordon  outside — the 
latter  more  nearly  corresponding  to  the  bible  location — 
outside  the  gate.  Everything  here  is  religion,  but  all 
diverse — ^the  Mohammedan,  the  Greek  orthodox,  the 
Roman  Catholic  and  others.  They  fight  and  quarrel  over 
the  holy  places  and  forget  that  Jesus  came  proclaiming 
"Peace  on  earth  and  good  will  to  men."  When  we 
visited  the  Mohammedan  mosque  on  the  site  of  Solomon's 
temple — the  mosque  of  Omar — the  American  Consul,  Mr. 
Wallace,  sent  a  consular  guard  and  the  Turkish  com- 
mander also  sent  a  Turkish  soldier  to  accompany  us. 

The  condition  here  is  very  unsettled  under  the  new- 
regime  of  the  Young  Turks,  and  many  incline  to  favor 
the  old  sultan  Abdul  Hamid.  The  consul  told  me  that 
some  eight  men  had  been  killed  near  his  office  only  a 
few  days  before  our  coming.  We  visited  Bethlehem, 
the  Mount  of  Olives,  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane,  Bethany, 
the  tomb  of  Lazarus  and  the  home  of  Martha  and  Mary 
and  many  other  places  of  historical  interest,  but  I  will 
not  attempt  to  describe  them,  for  it  has  already  been  done 
manv  times. 


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EGYPT  AND  PALESTINE  67 

Leaving  our  wives  in  Jerusalem  the  four  men  of  our 
party  went  down  to  Jericho,  the  Dead  Sea  and  Jordan. 
Two  days  before,  a  judge  going  down  had  fallen  among 
robbers  and  was  stripped  of  all  valuables.  The  day  be- 
fore the  Turkish  commander  at  Jerusalem  sent  down  a 
company  of  thirty  or  forty  soldiers  and  we  passed  their 
encampment  on  the  way.  When  I  say  "down  to  Jericho" 
— remember  that  Jerusalem  is  on  the  hills  twenty-five 
hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  Jericho  is  eight  hundred 
feet  below  sea  level,  and  the  Dead  Sea — the  lowest  body 
of  water  on  earth — still  lower  by  five  hundred  feet.  On 
the  way  down  nearly  every  Arab  that  we  met  had  his 
rifle  over  his  shoulder,  and  we  met  going  and  returning 
scores  of  them  on  the  way.  This  part  of  the  Turkish 
dominions  needs  British  or  some  other  rule  to  restore 
order  and  to  make  life  and  property  safe. 

I  went  in  swimming  in  the  Dead  Sea  and  the  water 
was  so  full  of  salt  that  without  any  effort  I  floated  on 
the  top  of  the  water.  I  then  drove  over  to  the  Jordan, 
where  the  place  of  the  baptism  of  Jesus  was  pointed  out, 
and  crossed  the  river  in  a  skiff.  In  the  middle  of  the 
river  I  jumped  into  the  waters  of  the  Jordan  over  my 
head  and  then  did  not  touch  the  bottom.  While  the 
water  was  not  very  clear,  it  was  deep  and  clean — trees 
on  either  side — and  was  a  beautiful  place  for  a  baptismal 
service.  The  Mount  of  Temptation  is  just  above  old 
Jericho — now  a  mass  of  ruins — and  the  place  pointed  out 
as  the  site  of  the  baptism  is  about  five  miles  below  in 
almost  a  straight  line,  so  that  it  may  be  the  true  site — 
but  on  most  of  these  long  past  scenes  or  places  pointed 
out  we  take  them  as  the  old  Romans  did  "Cum  grano 
salis."  The  old  ruins  of  Jericho  are  being  uncovered 
and  the  old  city  is  now  covered  with  the  dirt  and  ac- 
cumulation of  bygone  ages.  We  bought  a  large  mess  of 
fish  from  fishermen  at  the  Jordan  and  had  a  fine  supper 


68  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

at  our  hotel  in  Jericho,  where  we  passed  the  night.  We 
left  onr  valuables  at  Jerusalem,  so  we  slept  well,  with 
both  windows  open,  and  started  early  the  next  morning 
on  our  return  to  Jerusalem,  passing  on  our  way  up  the 
brook  Kedron,  where  Elijah  was  fed  by  the  ravens;  the 
Good  Samaritan  Inn,  on  the  site  of  the  one  where  the  man 
went  down  to  Jericho  and  fell  among  thieves  and  was 
cared  for  by  the  Good  Samaritan,  when  the  priest  and 
Levite  passed  by  on  the  other  side.  When  coming  over 
the  hills  into  Jerusalem  with  the  city  spread  before  us, 
we  could  realize  how  Christ  wept  over  the  city  whose 
destruction  he  knew  would  so  soon  follow.  Mrs.  B. 
and  I  rode  around  the  entire  walls  of  the  city  on  small 
burros  and  visited  the  wailing  place  of  the  Jews. 

Much  money  is  being  sent  to  Jerusalem  and  many 
Jews  are  returning  to  the  Holy  City,  and  the  time  is  not 
far  distant  when  Jews  will  again  control  Jerusalem  and 
the  prophecy  of  Christ  be  fulfilled. 

There  are  very  many  things  very  disappointing  here, 
but  above  it  all  you  realize  that  here  at  Bethlehem  was 
the  birthplace  of  Christ — over  these  hills  Jesus  walked, 
and  taught,  and  here  on  Calvary  He  gave  His  life  for 
His  people — here  He  was  buried  and  rose  from  the  dead, 
and  from  Mount  Olivet  ascended  into  heaven.  If  Christ 
did  not  so  die  and  rise  again,  then  indeed  is  our  faith  in 
vain. 

After  a  week  spent  in  Jerusalem  and  Palestine  we  re- 
turned to  Joppa  and  took  a  steamer  for  Alexandria, 
Egypt.  At  Alexandria  we  visited  the  tomb  or  pillar  of 
Pompey — drove  through  its  streets  and  parks  and  visited 
the  museum  containing  many  Egyptian  curios  and  relics 
of  ages  before  the  birth  of  Christ.  This  city,  as  you 
will  remember,  was  founded  by  Alexander  the  Great,  and 
it  was  here  that  the  greatest  library  of  ancient  times  was 
collected  and  afterwards  burned. 


ITALY. 

Ol'R      CORRKSPONMKNT      SaILS      FrOM      ALEXANDRIA      FOR 

Naples,  Italy.  Passing  Through  the  Narrow 
Straits  of  Messina — Visits  the  Metropolis  of 
Italy  and  Makes  a  Side  Trip  to  the  Ruins  of 
Pompeii  and  the  "Blue  Grotto"  on  the  Island 
OF  Capri — Sights  and  Scenes  in  the  Cities  of 
Rome,  Florence  and  X'enice. 


Venice,  Italy,  June   14th,   1909. 

MY  last  letter  from  xMexandria,  Egypt,  o^aye  your 
readers    some    of   my   observations    up    to    that 
time,  and  as  I  am  aborut  through  with  Italy  and 
will  leave  for  Trieste  in  Austria,  on  Tuesday,  June  15th, 
I  will  give  you  a  few  hurried  notes  of  our  journey  since 
leaving  Alexandria. 

From  Alexandria  to  Naples  is  something  more  than 
eleven  hundred  miles  across  the  Mediterranean  Sea.  On 
the  way  over  we  passed  near  the  island  of  Crete,  which  has 
been  a  bone  of  contention  between  Greece  and  Turkey. 
We  passed  through  the  narrow  straits  of  Messina — with 
the  city  of  Messina  on  the  left  on  the  island  of  Sicily 
and  Reggio  nearly  opposite  on  the  Italian  peninsula — 
forming  the  boot  of  Italy.  These  cities  sutTered  the 
terrific  earthquake  that  destroyed  full  one  hundred  thou- 
sand lives  and  millions  of  dollars"  worth  of  property 
some  six  months  ago.  The  ruined  cities  stand  in  deso- 
lation and  tell  us  how  ptmy  is  man  and  his  works  against 
the   terrific   forces  of  nature.      We   also  passed   between 


70  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

Scylla  and  Charybdis,  of  ancient  story — where  the  sail- 
ors were  tied  to  the  masts  with  wax  in  their  ears  to 
avoid  the  song  of  the  siren  that  hired  them  into  danger. 

As  we  passed  into  the  bay  of  Naples  we  saw  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  sights  of  our  entire  journey.  The 
island  of  Capri  on  our  left,  the  town  of  Sorrento  on 
our  right,  Vesuvius,  with  occasional  smoke  issuing  from 
the  crater,  and  the  great  city  of  Naples,  the  metropolis 
of  Italy,  reaching  from  the  shores  of  the  bay  up  the 
high  hillsides  back  of  the  city,  and  the  slopes  covered 
with  green  trees,  climbing  vines  and  clambering  roses, 
gorgeous  in  their  very  colorings,  beautiful  palaces,  many 
elegant  homes,  made  a  picture  worthy  of  a  painter — and 
the  saying  of  the  poet,  "See  Naples  and  die,"  is  not  far 
wrong;  only  I  would  go  the  poet  one  better  and  say, 
"See  Southern  California  and  live." 

The  harbor  is  protected  by  a  fine  breakwater,  but 
hardly  so  good  a  one  as  the  breakwater  built  at  Colombo 
on  the  island  of  Ceylon.  We  went  out  to  the  ruins  of 
the  city  of  Pompeii,  destroyed  by  an  eruption  from 
Vesuvius  in  the  year  seventy-nine  of  the  Christian  era. 
The  palaces,  temples  and  buildings  have  been  uncovered, 
the  streets  are  all  cleaned  up  and  you  can  see  just  how 
this  city  of  thirty  thousand  people  looked  before  its 
destruction.  It  was  a  rich,  luxurious  and  licentious  city. 
The  decorations  and  paintings  on  the  walls  of  the  pala- 
tial homes  would  not  be  tolerated  in  this  generation  be- 
cause of  their  indecent  character.  Sensual  lust,  instead 
of  virtue,  honor  and  purity  of  home  life  prevailed — but 
this  was  only  a  few  years  after  the  crucifixion  of  Christ 
and  before  his  gospel  had  been  promulgated  to  any 
extent  beyond  the  limits  of  Judea  and  Palestine.  Sen- 
sual Rome,  with  the  god  Bacchus,  reigned.     Monuments 


ITALY  71 

of  art  indicate  culture.  The  household  utensils  found 
in  the  excavations  are  surprising',  as  many  of  them  are 
in  use  todav,  and  fully  one-third  of  the  city  is  still 
uncovered — but  the  work  of  excavation  is  still  going  on 
and  many  new  and  interesting  things  will  be  uncovered. 
Herculaneum,  but  a  few  miles  away,  was  buried  so  deep 
that  another  city  is  now  built  on  the  site  of  the  old, 
which  lies  many  feet  below.  But  a  few  years  ago  the 
old  \"esuvius  sent  down  thousands  of  tons  of  lava  and 
laid  waste  a  large  area  of  land  near  these  buried  cities, 
but  people  go  on  just  the  same  and  build  and  buy  and 
sell  and  marry  and  are  given  in  marriage,  and  will  con- 
tinue to  do  so;  but  they  remember  and  exclaim  that  life 
is  only  a  journey  and  ends  with  a  funeral  march  to  the 
grave,  and  be  ye  alwavs  ready,  for  in  an  hour  when  no 
man  can  tell,  whether  on  land  or  sea,  the  summons  may 
come  and   we  must  all  answer. 

We  spent  a  day  over  at  the  island  of  Capri  in  the  bay 
of  Naples  and  visited  the  "Blue  Grotto",  a  very  rare 
and  beautiful  sight,  and  then  took  a  carriage  drive  high 
up  the  mountain  side  on  a  well-made  mountain  road- 
way, giving  from  the  high  elevation  a  beautifid  and 
extensive  view.  We  also  saw  on  the  island  the  beautiful 
grounds  of  the  late  Baron  Krupp  (of  gun  fame)  where 
he  intended  building  a  castle,  but  which  was  forbidden 
by  the  German  Emperor,  and  which  destruction  of  his 
castle  in  the  air  caused  his  suicide  and  death,  if  our 
informant  was  correct — but  you  cannot  always  indorse 
all  that  your  guides  tell  you. 

We  spent  several  days  in  the  city  of  Rome,  wander- 
ing among  the  ruins  of  the  old  Coliseum,  Hadrian's  villa, 
the  ruined  palace  of  Xero,  and  the  old  Roman  Aqueduct. 


72  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

We  drove  out  the  old  Appian  Way,  where  Caesar's 
imperial  legions  marched,  and  where  many  a  captive 
was  led,  chained  to  the  chariot  wheels  of  his  captors,  to 
grace  a  Roman  holiday.  One  of  the  gruesome  things 
was  a  journey  some  thirty  feet  underground  into  the 
catacombs,  where  the  hones  of  thousands  of  people  were 
buried,  and  the  bodies  still  shown.  Here  are  streets  for 
eleven  miles  underground  and  lined  with  dead  men's 
bones.  Amid  these  gruesome  surroundings  the  early 
Christians  concealed  themselves  to  elude  the  search  of 
the  Roman  soldiers  who  were  sent  to  bring  them  to  the 
monster,  Nero,  that  he  might  use  their  bodies  for  torches 
to  illuminate  the  imperial  gardens.  The  Coliseum  was 
only  a  slaughter-house  for  human  gladiators  who  fought 
beasts  or  still  more  beastly  men. 

The  Church  of  St.  Peter's  is  probably  the  finest  in  the 
world.  The  Sistine  Chapel,  where  the  Cardinals  meet 
in  conclave  when  a  new  Pope  is  elected,  has  many  beau- 
tiful paintings  by  Raphael  and  much  statuary  and  work 
by  Michael  Angelo.  The  Church  of  St.  Paul,  where  it 
is  claimed  that  the  body  of  the  Apostle  is  actually  buried, 
is  a  very  handsome  and  costly  structure.  Rome  is  grow- 
ing rapidly,  and  many  of  the  old  ruins  of  historical 
interest  are  disappearing  before  the  demand  for  new 
structures,  and  to  see  these  things — they  must  be  seen 
now. 

Our  next  journey  was  about  two  hundred  miles  from 
Rome  to  Florence. 

Florence  is  an  art  center  and  has  some  of  the  finest 
galleries  of  paintings  in  the  world.  It  is  built  on  both 
sides  of  the  Arno — as  Rome  is  now  on  both  sides  of  the 
Tiber — and  is  very  beautiful.  The  view  over  the  city 
from  the  Piazza  Michael  Angelo  is  of  surpassing  beauty, 


ITALY  73 

and  the  city  park  for  three  miles  along  the  Arno  is  a 
drive  that  affords  a  view  of  forest,  clean,  well-made 
drives  and  flora  such  as  one  seldom  sees.  There  are 
large  trees  of  fine  types  and  shady  nooks,  recesses  and 
views  on  the  river  Arno  that  are  very  fine. 

On  the  Plaza  Vecchio,  near  the  Neptune  fountain,  is 
a  bronze  tablet  of  Girolamo  Savonarola,  who  was  burned 
alive  there  in  1498,  and  his  ashes  scattered  on  the  river 
Arno.  He  was  a  martyr  to  religious  liberty,  and  while 
born  at  Ferrara,  on  the  river  Po,  he  was  a  preacher  at 
St.  Mark's  church  here  and  did  his  life's  work  in  Flor- 
ence, and  was  in  fact  greater  than  Dante  or  Cosmo, 
whose  statue  adorns  the  Plaza  and  who  are  so  highly 
honored  here.  The  Florentines  now  honor  the  man  they 
once  burned,  and  it  is  the  old  story — that  "Seven  cities 
lay  claim  to  Homer  dead,  through  which  the  living 
Homer  begged  his  bread." 

The  Ufizzi  and  Petti  galleries  contain  many  rare,  val- 
uable and  beautiful  paintings  of  ancient  and  modern 
artists,  such  as  Raffael,  Corregio  Del  Sarto,  Titian, 
Rubens,  V'an  Dyke  and  others,  and  statuary  carved  by 
the  world's  masters. 

The  ride  from  Florence  over  the  Apennines  was  very 
picturesque,  but  marred  somewhat  by  the  many  and 
long  tunnels.  Passing  down  on  the  other  side  we  came 
to  Bologna  and  went  through  Ferrara  and  Padua.  The 
country  is  highly  cultivated,  the  land  fertile  and  the 
fruit  in  the  greatest  abundance.  I  never  saw  cherry 
trees  anywhere  so  numerous  and  so  heavily  loaded  with 
the  ripe  fruit.  Hemp  is  grown  extensively  as  well  as 
wheat,  the  latter  being  used  for  the  manufacture  of 
macaroni. 

5 


74  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

Macaroni  is  largely  used  by  the  poorer  classes,  and 
when  the  beggars  solicit  alms,  or  servants  solicit  tips, 
they  ask  for  money  for  "macaroni."  I  think  I  have 
paid  for  a  mile  or  two  of  macaroni  since  I  came  into 
Italy. 

We  came  into  Venice  after  a  railway  journey  of 
something  more  than  five  hundred  and  thirty-four  miles 
since  leaving  Naples,  so  that  we  can  say  that  we  have 
seen  much  of  Italy.  We  had  visited  Milan  and  Genoa 
on  our  trip  to  Italy  some  six  years  before,  and  hence 
have  left  them  out  of  our  present  itinerary.  A  new 
experience  met  us  on  our  arrival  at  the  railway  station 
here.  Not  a  bus,  carriage,  cart,  dray,  wagon  or  vehicle 
drawn  by  any  sort  of  man  or  beast.  From  the  •  station 
we  took  a  gondola  on  the  Grand  Canal  and  went  to  our 
hotel — the  "Hotel  Royal  Danieli",  some  two  miles  away 
— passing  under  the  "Rialto"  and  the  "Bridge  of  Sighs" 
out  into  a  bay  of  the  Aidriatic  sea  and  back  again  into 
a  canal  leading  up  to  the  steps  of  our  hotel — which  was 
a  former  palace  of  the  Royal  house  and  contained  many 
luxurious  apartments.  The  floor  of  our  room  is  mosaic 
work  and  was  laid  in  1769 — seven  years  before  the  Dec- 
laration of  Independence.  The  Doges  Palace  near  by  is 
still  very  beautiful  and  artistic,  and  it  was  from  here  that 
the  Council  of  Three  condemned  the  political  prisoners  to 
death  and  sent  them  across  the  "Bridge  of  Sighs"  to  con- 
finement in  dungeons  until  the  time  of  beheading,  and 
the  place  is  still  shown  where  the  blood  drained  down 
into  the  canal  and  the  cadaver  was  pushed  through  a 
door  into  a  boat  in  the  canal  to  be  taken  off  like  garbage 
into  a  place  of  sepulture  like  so  many  dead  dogs.  Such 
was   life   in   the   centuries   passed,   when   a   Council   of 


ITALY  75 

Three,  on  an  anonymous  charge  unsupported  by  evi- 
dence or  by  the  presence  of  witnesses,  condemned  the 
innocent  to  death.  Surely  under  our  law  the  escape  of 
a  few  guilty  men  is  far  better  than  this  slaughter  of  the 
innocent. 

This  city  is  a  city  of  canals,  and  all  the  transportation 
is  done  by  boats,  and  I  have  not  seen  a  horse,  mule  or 
wheeled  vehicle  of  any  kind  since  coming  here  several 
days  ago.  We  took  a  gondola  and  spent  two  hours  the 
other  afternoon,  passing  where  Robert  Browning  and 
Richard  Wagner  died  while  here,  and  many  palatial 
homes,  all  with  steps  leading  down  to  gondola  landings. 
Many  small  steamers  and  gasoline  launches  ply  on  the 
bay  and  the  Grand  Canal,  but  only  gondolas  and  canoes 
can  go  through  the  smaller  canals.  This  is  indeed  a  city 
built  on  the  sea.  The  Campanile,  which  fell,  is  being  re- 
built and  is  up  to  the  tower.  St.  Mark's  Church  here  is 
one  of  the  many  fine  churches  of  Italy,  and  like  others 
has  many  valuable  ceiling  and  mural  paintings  by  some  of 
the  great  masters.  The  Doges  Palace  has  many  very  fine 
pictures  on  the  walls.  The  many  fine  stores  around  the 
St.  Mark's  Square — under  a  covered  arcade — are  very 
attractive  and  cause  many  Americans  to  part  with  their 
dollars. 

Trieste,  Austria,  is  just  across  the  Adriatic  Sea — sixty 
miles  over — and  on  Tuesday  we  go  over  by  steamer,  to 
take  a  steamer  from  there — the  Palacky — for  our  jour- 
ney down  the  Adriatic  to  Brindisi — the  island  of  Corfu — 
then  to  Patras,  Greece,  and  then  by  rail  through  Greece 
to  Corinth  and  Athens,  and  from  there  to  Constantinople, 
where  we  may  be  able  to  see  something  of  the  new 
regime. 


GREECE. 

From  Venice,  Italy,  to  Trieste,  Austria,  by  Steamer. 
Thence  DbwN  the  Adriatic  Sea  Near  Austrian 
Shore  to  Pola,  and  Then  Along  Coast  of  Bos- 
nia AND  Montenegro — The  Interesting  Island 
of  Corfu,  Which  in  Homeric  Times  Was  Held 
AS  THE  Extreme  Western  Country  of  the 
Earth — The  Cities  of  Corinth  and  Athens. 


Athens,  Greece,  June  19,  1909. 

ON  leaving  Venice  our  steamer  crossed  the  Adriatic 
Sea,  a  distance  of  sixty  miles,  to  Trieste,  Austria. 
In  passing  out  of  the  harbor  of  Venice  we  had  a 
fine  view  of  the  Italian  parade  grounds,  where  we  saw 
marching  and  in  drill  probably  three  thousand  soldiers, 
going  through  the  manual  of  arms,  drilling  in  forma- 
tions of  single,  double  and  squadrons,  deploying  as  skir- 
mishers, falling  to  the  ground  and  other  movements  of 
well-trained  soldiers.  The  drill  ground  was  large,  level 
and  covered  with  lawn.  Near  by  was  one  of  the  large 
forts  protecting  the  entrance  to  the  harbor  and  a  battle- 
ship with  crew  all  schooling  themselves  for  war.  These 
continental  countries  are  all  armed  and  ready  for  war, 
and  it  is  the  leading  industry  over  here  to  teach  men  the 
art  of  killing  one  another  in  the  most  dexterous  manner 
and  with  the  most  improved  weapons  of  war  on  land 
and  sea. 

Trieste,  a  city  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand,  is 
the  great  seaport  of  the  Austrian  Empire  and  is  filled 
with  shipping  from  almost  every  land  except  America. 


GREECE  T7 

It  is  seldom  that  we  see  that  flag  that  we  love  so  well 
flying  from  the  masts  of  vessels  in  foreign  ports.  The 
harbor  is  protected  from  the  sea  by  a  breakwater,  and 
having  deep  water  within  allows  steamers  to  come  up  to 
the  piers  and  discharge  passengers  and  freight  without 
the  expense  and  inconvenience  of  lighters — and  the  city 
has  a  very  large  export  and  import  business.  The  water 
front  and  business  portion  of  the  city  is  on  comparatively 
level  land  and  has  fine  business  blocks  of  cream  white 
brick,  four  and  five  stories  high,  of  the  best  construction. 
One  thing  unusual  I  noticed  in  passing  over  to  my 
steamer — the  Palacky — along  the  railway  was  the  use  of 
oxen  in  hauling  freight  cars  on  the  steam  railway  in  the 
business  center  of  the  city.  The  track  was  level  and  the 
men  would  start  the  car,  and  a  single  ox  with  a  collar — 
not  yoke — would  pull  the  car  to  its  destination.  There 
was  no  smoke,  no  blowing  of  whistles,  no  people  run 
over  and  yet  a  large  business  in  a  large  city  was  done 
in  this  way.  Back  of  the  city  front  the  hills  rise  rapidly 
and  the  residential  portion  ascends  the  hillsides,  and  the 
railway  coming  in  goes  through  tunnels  or  crosses 
bridges  over  the  gulleys  or  canons. 

Just  north  of  the  city  in  full  view,  on  the  sea  side,  is 
Miramar,  a  large,  handsome  castle  with  fine  grounds  and 
large  tree-like  park  in  the  rear,  which  was  erected  for 
the  home  of  Maximilian  Archduke,  who  left  it  in  the 
latter  part  of  our  own  Civil  War,  in  defiance  of  the  Mon- 
roe Doctrine,  to  establish  an  empire  in  Mexico  with  the 
aid  of  Napoleon  the  Third  and  French  troops,  and  was 
captured  and  shot  to  death  by  the  Mexicans  as  his 
reward.  He  had  here  all  that  heart  could  desire,  and 
paltry  ambition  caused  him  to  leave  it  all  and  die  the 


7S>  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

death  of  a  usurper  in  a  strange  land,  and  I  can  mentally 
see  the  picture  when  the  Emperor  and  Empress  came 
down  here  to  bid  the  Duke  and  Duchess  good-bye  on 
that  last  farewell.  We  passed  down  the  Adriatic  near 
the  Austrian  shore  as  far  as  Pola  and  then  along  the 
coast  of  Bosnia  and  Montenegro.  We  passed  at  night 
on  the  Italian  side  the  old  town  of  Bincini,  on  the  small 
river  Rubicon,  which  was  once  the  northern  boundary  of 
the  Roman  Empire,  hence  "to  cross  the  Rubicon"  was  to 
enter  a  foreign  land.  Our  next  stopping  place  for  sev- 
eral hours  was  the  old  and  ancient  Brindisi,  Italy.  Here 
Virgil,  the  poet,  died  on  his  return  from  Greece,  nine- 
teen years  before  Christ,  and  it  is  probably  the  city  to 
which  St.  Paul  came  on  his  journey  from  Athens  and 
Corinth  to  Rome.  It  was  the  end  of  the  old  Appian 
Way  to  Rome,  and  over  which  I  drove  for  several  miles 
from  Rome,  passing  the  place  where  Peter  was  said  to 
have  stopped  on  his  way  to  Rome,  the  tomb  of  Cecilia, 
the  Catacombs,  the  Circus  Maximus  and  into  the  Cam- 
pagna  and  up  a  hill  into  a  barley  field,  giving  us  a  fine 
view  of  the  Alban  hills  and  down  the  straight  Appian 
Way  as  it  led  out  to  the  sea  at  Brindisi,  from  which 
Roman  legions  would  sail  for  all  Eastern  conquests.  The 
port  was  a  rallying  place  for  crusaders  and  was  after- 
ward destroyed  by  the  Saracens. 

From  here  our  journey  ran  across  the  sea  southeast  to 
the  island  of  Corfu  and  the  town  of  Corfu  on  the  east 
side  of  the  island. 

We  came  over  from  Brindisi  and  anchored  outside  of 
the  landing  place  and  went  over  in  row  boats  to  the 
city  of  Corfu,  the  ancient  Corcyra,  on  the  Island  of 
Corfu,  one  of  the  group  of  seven  forming  the  Ionian 


GREECE  79 

Islands,  and  entered  from  the  Adriatic  into  the  Ionian 
Sea.  Our  steamer  anchored  here  all  day  on  June  17th, 
so  we  took  a  row  boat  and  went  on  shore  for  the  day. 
We  drove  out  into  the  country  eight  miles  by  carriage 
on  a  splendid  roadway  out  to  the  palace  erected  by  the 
Empress  Elizabeth  of  Austria,  who  was  assassinated  a 
few  years  ago  at  Geneva,  and  who  spent  more  than  one 
million  dollars  on  the  house  and  grounds.  The  place 
was  recently  sold  to  Emperor  William  of  Germany  for 
one-fourth  of  the  amount.  It  is  a  beautiful  place  and 
has  one  of  the  finest  views  in  Europe  out  on  the  Ionian 
Sea  and  surrounding  group  of  islands.  We  passed  many 
people  on  the  road  and  saw  how  the  men  and  women 
rode  on  burros  always  with  both  legs  on  one  side  and 
a  pack  to  balance  on  the  other,  the  women  coming  into 
market  with  fruit,  berries,  cucumbers  or  other  products 
on  the  top  of  the  head,  and  the  arms  swinging  as  they 
walked,  or  in  some  cases  engaged  in  knitting,  always 
erect.  Speaking  of  cucumbers,  we  saw  wagonloads  of 
them  piled  up  along  the  road  for  sale  and  we  saw  men 
buying  and  peeling  them  with  a  knife  and  eating  with- 
out salt.  The  country  is  semi-tropical,  very  rich  and 
highly  cultivated.  Large  olive  trees  full  of  blossom,  fig 
trees  well  fruited,  grapevines  loaded  with  immense 
bunches,  loquat,  lemon  and  orange  trees  and  quantities 
of  pear,  peach,  plum,  apricot,  and  most  surprising  fields 
of  Indian  corn  for  roasting  ears ;  some  in  ear,  some  in 
tassel  and  on  down  to  new  planting.  We  wanted  some, 
but  none  were  far  enough  advanced  for  the  table.  Of 
vegetables  all  kinds  were  in  abundance.  Our  guide  said 
this  was  the  richest  agricultural  land  on  earth  and  the 
finest  climate.  I  asked  him  if  he  were  a  real  estate 
agent,  and  he  replied  "Xo,  why  do  you  ask?''     I  told 


8o  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

him  that  he  talked  just  Hke  some  that  I  knew  in  far-off 
Southern  Cahfornia.  There  is  a  great  similarity  in 
climate  and  productions  of  the  two  countries.  In  1836 
this  was  a  possession  of  Great  Britain,  but  now  belongs 
to  Greece,  and  the  Governor  was  a  man  by  the  name  of 
Adams,  who  constructed  the  waterworks  here  and  said 
to  have  the  best  and  purest  water  to  be  had  anywhere ; 
we  sampled  it  and  found  it  to  be  excellent.  After  his 
eminent  success  in  this  enterprise  arose  the  saying,  "I 
want  some  of  Adam's  Ale."  The  fortress  here,  in  early 
days  called  the  citadel,  was  considered  impregnable,  but 
against  modern  cannon  would  be  of  little  defensive  value. 
The  Island  of  Corfu  in  Homeric  times  was  held  as 
the  extreme  western  country  of  the  earth.  The  Island 
of  Ithaca  just  below  is  said  to  be  the  one  described  by 
Homer  in  the  Odyssey.  We  passed  the  Gulf  of  Arta, 
into  which  the  Arta  river,  the  northern  boundary  of 
Greece,  empties,  and  in  front  of  which  the  empire  of 
the  world  was  lost  by  Antony  at  the  battle  of  Actium. 
We  landed  at  P'atras  in  Greece,  a  prosperous  city  of 
some  thirty  thousand  people,  and  through  which  the 
commerce  of  the  Peliponessus  passes.  We  took  a  car- 
riage drive  through  the  city  and  a  short  way  into  the 
country.  The  land  in  the  vicinity  is  rich  and  covered 
with  vines  and  trees  in  full  fruitage.  The  citadel  is  high 
on  the  hill  and  very  imposing,  but  out  of  date  for  de- 
fensive purposes.  Our  rail  journey  from  Patras  to  this 
city  was  two  hundred  and  forty  miles,  and  we  passed 
through  a  very  beautiful  and  fruitful  valley,  but  narrow, 
between  the  sea  of  Corinth  on  one  side  and  mountains 
on  the  other,  and  just  across  the  sea  the  high  peaks 
of  Mt.  Parnassus.  The  present  city  of  Corinth  on  the 
railway  is  a  short  distance  from  the  old  city  of  Corinth 


GREECE  8i 

where  the  Apostle  Paul  lived  and  preached,  and  high 
up  on  the  mountain  side  we  could  see  Acro-Corinth 
from  our  car.  The  town  of  Corinth  is  almost  altogether 
built  of  sun-dried  mud  or  adobe  buildings  with  tile  roofs, 
and  around  each  dwelling  is  a  fence  of  the  same  material 
about  five  feet  high  enclosing  the  yard,  into  which  the 
sheep  or  goats  can  be  led  and  kept  secure  in  the  sheep- 
fold. 

Again  I  noticed  a  great  similarity  to  Palestine.  The 
wheat  was  tramped  out  on  a  threshing  floor  in  the  open 
air  and  the  straw  was  tossed  into  the  air  so  that  the 
wind  could  drive  the  chaff  away.  The  only  method  of 
irrigation  was  the  Egyptian  one  of  a  mule  turning  a 
wheel  by  going  around  in  a  circle  and  thus  pumping 
the  water. 

Just  out  of  Corinth  we  passed  over  the  canal  which 
connects  the  Gulf  or  Sea  of  Corinth  with  the  sea  on  the 
south  and  Piraeus,  the  port  of  Athens.  The  canal  at 
Corinth,  while  about  five  miles  in  length,  was  very  deep, 
and  the  banks  of  the  canal  walled  with  solid  masonry. 
I  should  judge  in  passing  over  that  it  was  fully  forty 
feet  deep  from  the  top  of  the  excavation  to  the  water 
and  fifty  feet  in  width  at  the  top,  sloping  banks  to  a 
width  of  only  twenty  feet  at  the  canal,  so  that  only  small 
vessels  could  go  through  and  that  without  passing  in  the 
canal. 

St.  Paul  sent  Timothy  to  the  church  at  Corinth,  and 
from  the  waters  here  I  can  understand  his  advice  to 
Timothy  not  to  drink  any  water,  but  to  "take  a  little 
wine  for  his  stomach's  sake  and  thine  often  infirmities," 
for  I  have  bought  bottled  Apollinaris  and  soda  water, 
and  while  I  am  something  of  a  fanatic  on  the  temper- 
ance question,  if  I  could  not  get  bottled  w'ater  of  some 


82  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

kind  I  might  be  almost  tempted  to  take  a  little  wine 
while  here  for  my  stomach  ache,  for  grapes  are  very 
plentiful  and  the  making  of  wine  here  one  of  the  great 
industries. 

East  of  Corinth  the  land  is  mostly  barren  and  dry 
and  there  is  very  little  fertile  land  until  you  reach  the 
Frazian  plain  near  Athens.  The  stony  land  is  of  little 
value,  now  covered  with  oleander  brush  in  full  bloom, 
and  is  very  attractive.  Grapes  are  abundant,  thousands 
of  acres  being  planted,  and  olive  groves  quite  numerous, 
and  the  trees  look  bright  and  green  and  are  free  from 
scale. 

We  left  the  train  at  Eleusis  and  walked  up  to  the  old 
ruins  of  the  Great  Hall  or  Prophylia,  vast  fluted  columns, 
immense  bases  for  columns  and  capitals  of  the  finest 
sculpture,  and  here  was  where  the  Eleusinian  mysteries 
were  held.  The  seats  were  cut  out  of  solid  rock,  and  I 
climbed  up  to  the  highest  tier  and  there  had  a  fine  view 
to  the  south  of  the  Biay  of  Eleusis  and  through  the  open- 
ing to  the  south  of  the  Straits  of  Salamis,  where  the 
great  sea  battle  took  place  in  which  the  Greeks  destroyed 
the  Persian  fleet.  Returning  through  the  village  of 
Eleusis  (Lepsina)  and  took  our  train  for  Athens. 

The  city  of  Athens  is  very  attractive  and  has  now 
about  two  hundred  thousand  and  is  growing  rapidly. 
The  new  buildings  are  of  Grecian  style  of  architecture. 
Our  hotel,  the  Bretagne,  is  just  across  from  the  palace 
of  the  king,  and,  it  being  out  of  season,  we  are  furnished 
with  choice  apartments  on  the  ground  floor  for  four 
dollars  per  day  each.  We  took  a  carriage  drive  out  the 
beautiful  avenue,  well  paved  and  lined  with  trees,  down 
to  the  sea  at  Phalerum,  which  is  the  great  seaside  resort 
for  Athens,  and  took  our  dinner  on  the  beach  and  re- 


GREECE  AND  TURKEY  83 

turned  at  nine  p.m.  by  electric  train.  It  was  rather 
unusual  to  travel  in  an  electric  car  filled  with  people 
and  not  one  in  the  car,  including-  the  conductor,  able  to 
speak  a  word  of  English ;  it  made  one  feel  lonesome 
even  in  a  crowd. 

We  are  now  in  the  cradle  of  civilization,  the  nation 
that  gave  us  art,  letters,  poetry  and  philosophy,  and  the 
first  to  establish  a  republican  form  of  government.  We 
drove  by  the  Acropolis  and  many  other  monuments  of 
antiquity,  but  we  are  not  writing  either  a  history  or  a 
guide  book  and  shall  not  attempt  to  describe  them,  for 
it  has  already  been  done  by  scores  of  others. 

The  advantage  of  travel  is  to  see  how  other  people 
live  and  learn  what  we  can  of  the  present  and  past. 


GREECE  AND  TURKEY. 


Our  Correspoxdent  Is  Impressed  With  the  Great- 
ness OF  THE  Ancient  Greeks — He  Views  the 
Stadium,  Where  There  Are  Forty-Eight  Thou- 
sand Numbered  Seats,  and  Stands  on  Mars 
Hill,  Where  the  Apostle  Paul  PreaIched  and 
Proclaimed  to  the  Athenians  the  Unknown 
God  To  Whom  They  Had  Erected  a  Statue. 
The  City  of  Athens,  and  Scenes  and  Incidents 
En  Route  to  Constantinople. 


Constantinople,  June  21,  1909. 

I   MIGHT  say  that  in  Athens  I  was  very  much  im- 
pressed with  the  greatness  of  the  ancient  Greeks, 
The  Stadium  is  an  immense  arena,  and  the  seating 
capacity  beyond  anything  imagined.     There  are  forty- 
eight  thousand  numbered  seats,  and  by  crowding,  sev- 
enty thousand  people  have  viewed  the  modern  games — 


84  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

running,  wrestling,  etc.  It  is  a  modern  restoration  with 
some  of  the  ancient  parts  in  the  new.  It  is  out  in  the 
open,  the  games  being  held  in  April,  a  dry  month  here. 
The  Acropolis  gives  a  magnificent  view  of  Athens,  the 
country  and  the  sea.  Mars  Hill,  where  the  Apostle  Paul 
preached  and  proclaimed  to  the  Athenians  the  unknown 
God  to  whom  they  had  erected  a  statue,  was  a  magnifi- 
cent pulpit  of  solid  rock,  and  as  I  stood  in  the  supposed 
spot  I  could  look  down  to  where  the  statue  stood  and 
look  up  to  the  Acropolis  where  stood  the  Temple,  the 
Parthenon — the  Temple  of  Jupiter — possessing  on  the 
outside  Doric  and  inside  Ionic  capitals  on  fluted  columns 
and  considered  the  most  beautiful  temple  in  the  world, 
and  inside  the  statues  of  Jupiter,  Bacchus  and  other 
Grecian  Deities,  and  they  being  just  up  the  hill  from 
where  Paul  stood,  his  sermon  would  be  most  effective. 
Socrates'  prison  stood  near  by,  where  Wisdom  was 
sacrificed  to  prejudice  and  superstition,  and  just  above 
the  Temple  to  Wingless  Victory  commemorating  the 
battles  of  Marathon,  Salamis  and  Platea,  and  again  on 
the  same  place  where  Paul  stood,  Demosthenes  long  be- 
fore thrilled  the  Athenians  to  march  out  against  Philip 
of  Macedon.  Our  schoolboy  days  came  back  to  us  and 
we  felt  well  repaid  for  coming  here. 

While  modern  Athens  is  building  up  very  rapidly, 
with  many  new  and  handsome  business  blocks,  it  seems 
to  me  very  singular  in  taking  a  stroll  down  one  of  the 
principal  business  streets  to  find  the  shutters  up  and 
notices  that  the  stores  were  closed  from  twelve  noon  to 
three-thirty — my  time  was  one-thirty  p.m. — and  I  found 
not  only  the  banks  and  stores  closed,  but  even  the  boot- 
blacks stretched  out  asleep  on  the  door  steps.  But  this 
is  Oriental,  not  western,  life,  and  they  seem  to  think 


GREECE  AND  TURKEY  85 

that  I  am  very  foolish  for  not  staying  at  home  and  sleep- 
ing life  away,  and  sometimes  I  think  that  they  are  about 
right,  if  not  altogether.  When  I  call  for  Adam's  Ale 
instead  of  red  or  white  Grecian  wine,  then  they  know 
for  a  surety  that  I  ought  to  be  confined  in  a  place  that 
I  saw  the  other  day  on  the  Island  of  Corfu — which  the 
driver  informed  me  was  a  lunatic  asylum.  Probably  we 
Americans  do  rush  things  too  much  and  burn  the  candle 
at  both  ends,  but  when  I  climbed  to  the  top  of  the 
Acropolis  I  thought  for  a  man  of  sixty-two  past  I  was 
doing  pretty  well  by  leading  my  kind  of  life.  The  cos- 
tumes worn  here  by  the  Greek  guards  of  the  Palace  are 
very  quaint — tight  hose  to  the  waist  and  a  white  skirt 
from  the  waist  to  a  point  above  the  knees,  something 
like  a  Scottish  Highlander's  kilt  skirt — very  novel  and 
not  wholly  unattractive. 

We  drove  in  a  carriage,  by  the  old  cemetery — with 
many  singular  statues  and  carvings  of  ancient  sculptures 
— and  down  to  Piraeus,  the  Port  of  Athens.  From  the 
Gulf  of  Aegina  we  could  see  the  Acropolis  at  Athens 
and  the  island  around  which  the  Persian  fleet  went  to 
destruction  at  Salamis.  From  this  gulf  we  passed  close 
to  the  island  Macronissi  (Helena),  one  of  the  Cyclades 
of  which  Delos  was  the  principal  island,  and  out  through 
the  narrow  pass  or  channel  between  the  islands  of 
Andros  and  Euboea,  into  the  Aegean  Sea,  and  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  of  the  many  seas  through  which  we 
have  passed  in  our  long  journey.  It  is  no  wonder  that 
when  the  Aryan  race  came  down  across  Asia  Minor 
to  this  beautiful  sea  they  should  have  exclaimed  on 
seeing  it,  "Thalassa!  Thalassa !"    (The  sea!    The  sea!) 

On  Sunday,  June  20th,  about  noon,  the  day  being 
bright  and  clear,  we  had  before  us — with  the  aid  of  my 


86  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

strong  field  glass — the  most  pleasing  prospects  on  land 
and  sea.  On  sea  many  sailing  vessels  in  full-spread 
sails,  many  steamers  and  other  craft — on  land  Mt.  Athos 
on  the  left,  and  passing  between  the  Asiatic  shore  and 
the  island  of  Tenedos — a  narrow  way — we  had  a  good 
view  of  Tenedo,  quaint  with  its  many  tanks  and  large 
windmills  and  the  old  Venetian  fortifications  and  build- 
ings, and  from  the  time  of  the  Trojan  war  a  great  naval 
station.  The  steamer,  which  keeps  near  the  shores  of 
Asia  Minor,  passed  Eski-Stamboul  (Alexandria-Troas), 
a  place  visited  by  the  Apostle  Paul,  and  from  which  he 
passed  over  into  Macedonia  on  the  other  side.  It  was 
here,  on  his  return  from  Greece,  that  he  restored  to  life 
Eutychus,  who  had  fallen  from  an  upper  window  in  his 
sleep.  Isfow  we  came  up  to  the  Dardanelles  (Helles- 
pont), and  on  either  side  we  see  the  Turkish  forts — with 
disappearing  guns,  said  to  be  Krupp  of  the  latest  model 
— commanding  the  entrance,  and  it  would  seem  to  be 
fatal  to  any  ship  to  pass  them,  as  the  entrance  is  so 
narrow.  And  just  back  a  short  distance  from  here  are 
the  ruins  of  ancient  Troy,  and  right  here  is  where 
Xerxes  built  his  bridge  of  boats  across  the  Hellespont 
and  marched  his  army  into  Greece.  We  certainly  en- 
joyed beyond  power  of  description  these  many  scenes 
of  historic  interest,  and  the  reminiscences  will  be  a 
theme  of  gladness  the  rest  of  our  days.  The  sea  is  so 
narrow  here  that  it  was  not  much  of  a  swim  for  Leander 
to  cross  over  to  see  Hero.  Our  steamer  stopped  here  at 
Dardanelles  for  some  two  hours,  but  this  is  Turkish  soil 
and  we  cannot  go  on  shore  without  a  teskereh,  although 
our  passport  issued  by  the  Secretary  of  State  is  vised 
by  a  Turkish  consul. 

At  the  town  of  Dardanelles,  a  town  of  fifteen  thousand 


GREECE  AND  TURKEY  87 

people,  we  saw  three  more  forts  with  large  guns  in  plain 
view,  one  on  the  European  and  two  on  the  Asiatic  side 
— the  points  of  land  not  exceeding  one  mile  gives  a  com- 
plete command  of  the  channel.  One  pleasant  sight  here 
was  to  see  Old  Glory  flying  from  a  pole  in  front  of  the 
United  States  Consulate,  and  while  we  saw  flags  of  other 
nations  on  masts  none  looked  quite  so  good  to  us  as  the 
Stars  and  Stripes.  There  are  three  towns  here — Dar- 
danelles on  the  Asiatic,  and  two  others  on  the  European 
side.  The  town  is  on  a  plain,  and  on  the  w^ater  front  it 
was  crowded  with  Turks,  w-ho  seemed  to  be  at  leisure, 
although  the  day  (Sunday)  was  not  so  with  them,  as 
Friday  is  their  day  of  worship  and  rest,  but  Turkey  is 
now  passing  through  a  change  of  dynasty  that  creates 
unrest,  and  crowds  gather  to  hear  the  latest  news,  and 
papers  are  as  eagerly  sought  and  read  as  they  were  dur- 
ing our  late  Civil  or  Spanish  war.  I  soon  learned  the 
cause  of  the  commotion  in  the  city,  for  an  English 
steamer  came  into  the  bay  while  our  steamer  was 
anchored  there,  with  a  Turkish  officer  on  board,  and  then 
out  came  twenty  to  thirty  rowboats  filled  with  people, 
Turkish  flags  and  banners  flying,  and  escorted  the  gen- 
eral from  the  ship  to  the  landing.  The  soldiers  came 
down  from  the  fort  to  assist  in  the  reception  and  all 
seemed  to  welcome  the  commander  under  the  new- 
regime.  At  the  north  side  of  the  little  bay  is  the  narrow- 
est passage  of  the  Dardanelles,  and  I  have  never  seen  any 
place  more  strongly  fortified.  We  passed  up  to  the  city 
of  Gallipoli — thirty  thousand  people — on  the  left  or  Euro- 
pean side  of  the  Dardanelles,  and  thence  out  into  the 
sea  of  Marmora. 

I  got  up  at  four  a.m.,  in  order  to  see  the  entrance  of 
the  steamer  into  the  Bosphorus  and  to  have  a  look  at 


88  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

the  city  of  Constantinople.  The  sun  rose  at  4:15  a.m. 
and  at  4 130  we  came  into  sight  of  the  domes  and  minarets 
of  the  mosque  St.  Sophia,  the  finest  in  the  world,  and  of 
many  others.  It  was  a  perfect  morning  and  I  was  well 
repaid  for  the  exertion. 

Constantine,  the  Roman  emperor,  was  wise  in  trans- 
ferring his  capital  from  the  city  of  Rome  on  the  Tiber 
to  the  new  city  named  after  him  on  the  Bosphorus.  for 
it  is  the  finest  site  for  a  city  that  I  have  yet  seen.  The 
Golden  Horn  divides  Stamboul  from  Pera  and  the  Bos- 
phorus from  Scutari  on  the  Asiatic  side,  so  that  the  one 
million  inhabitants  are  divided  into  the  three  sections  of 
the  city.  In  the  morning  sunrise  the  gilt  domes  and  min- 
arets on  all  sides  were  brilliant  and  a  sight  unparalleled. 

As  we  entered  the  harbor  our  steamer  was  surrounded 
with  boats  of  many  kinds — some  with  merchandise,  oth- 
ers to  land  passengers  from  the  steamer  and  many  in 
fantastic  Turkish  garb.  We  landed,  and  the  first  thing 
demanded  was  an  examination  of  our  passport,  which 
being  duly  vised  allowed  us  to  pass  into  the  custom  house 
for  the  examination  of  our  luggage.  After  passing  out 
from  the  customs,  another  Turkish  officer  hailed  us  and 
again  our  passport  had  to  be  examined.  We  took  a  car- 
riage for  our  hotel — the  Pera  Palace — on  the  hill,  and  the 
first  thing  attracting  our  attention  was  the  large,  mangy, 
lazy  dogs  lying  in  the  street.  Mrs.  B.  started  soon  to 
count  them  and  in  a  few  blocks  had  counted  one  hundred 
and  then  she  stopped.  The  dogs  do  not  have  owners, 
but  as  the  garbage  is  swept  into  the  street  they  forage 
it  for  a  living,  and  the  guide  tells  us  that  the  dogs  have 
certain  sections  of  the  city  and  will  not  allow  any  dogs 
from  other  sections  to  enter,  and  if  they  trespass,  all  the 


GREECE  AND  TURKEY  89 

doj^s  combine  and  drive  them  out,  but  if  a  dog  wishes  to 
pass  through  to  another  section,  they  will  escort  him 
through  safely,  but  he  must  abide  only  in  his  own  allotted 
quarter.  The  city  seems  quiet,  but  you  see  armed  sol- 
diers on  every  hand  ready  to  quell  any  uprising,  and  the 
opinion  seems  prevalent  that  the  new  regime  has  come 
to  stay  and  that  public  order  and  security  of  life  will  be 
better  than  ever  before.  But  to  improve  the  conditions 
here  the  stranger  must  be  treated  with  courtesy  and  en- 
couraged to  come,  instead  of  treating  him  at  every  turn 
as  though  he  was  loaded  with  dynamite. 

We  find  many  new  and  interesting  things  here,  but  as 
a  city  it  is  very  much  like  others,  except  that  it  is  Ori- 
ental and  not  Occidental,  Mohammedan  and  not  Chris- 
tian. Old  conditions  are  certainly  changing  for  the  bet- 
ter, and  if  the  Young  Turks — the  Constitutional  party — 
can  continue  in  control  and  dominate  the  empire  for  a 
few  years  there  may  be  hope  for  a  better  condition  of 
things,  but  what  a  day  may  bring  forth  here  no  one  can 
tell.  I  am  truly  glad  that  we  did  not  give  up  our  antic- 
ipated visit  here,  although  we  had  to  come  alone  into  a 
strange  land — strange  religion,  with  an  unknown  tongue. 
Women  are  degraded,  and  in  fact  become  the  slaves  of 
men  under  Mohammedanism,  and  to  see  them  is  only  to 
pity  them  in  their  helpless  condition.  If  a  tree  is  known 
by  its  fruit,  truly  Mohammedanism  is  not  to  be  com- 
pared with  Christianity  in  its  beneficent  results  in  the  life 
of  the  people.  Polygamy  is  taught  and  the  Koran 
(Sale's),  page  ^7,2,  allowed  the  Prophet  "Any  other 
believing  woman,  if  she  give  herself  unto  the  Prophet, 
in  case  the  Prophet  desireth  to  take  her  to  wife.  This 
is  a  peculiar  privilege  granted  unto  thee  above  the  rest 
of  the  true  believers.'' 

6 


TURKEY. 

Thk  City  of  Constantinople — Its  Many  Domes  and 
Minarets — Palatial  Buildings  and  Vast  Ship- 
ping IN  THE  Harbor — Our  Correspondent  Visits 
THE  Mohammedan  Mosque  of  St.  Sophia,  Which 
He  Describes  as  the  Acme  of  Beauty  and  Mag- 
nificence— From  the  Turkish  Capital  to  Bu- 
charest and  Scenes  En  Route. 


Bucharest,  Rou mania,  June  24,  '09. 

MY  last  letter  was  from  Constantinople  and  gave  an 
account  of  our  approach  to  the  city  from  the  sea 
of  Marmora  by  early  morning  sunlight,  and  of 
the  dogs,  but  did  not  take  up  the  sights  of  the  city.  We 
first,  Mrs.  B.  and  I,  climbed  up  the  high  Tower  of  Galata, 
built  by  the  Venetians  many  centuries  ago,  but  still  in  a 
good  state  of  preservation,  being  so  solidly  built.  It  is 
on  a  high  point  and  many  stories  higher  than  the  high- 
est building,  and  being  circular,  with  a  balcony  surround- 
ing the  top,  it  gave  a  magnificent  view  of  the  city  in  all 
directions. 

The  city  of  Constantinople  has  fovir  subdivisions — 
Stamboul,  the  main  city,  south  of  the  Golden  Horn ; 
Pera  and  Galata,  on  the  north,  and  Scutari,  across  the 
Bosphorus,  on  the  Asiatic  side — the  city  being  at  the 
entrance  to  the  Bosphorus — sometimes  spelled  Bosporus 
— Cows  ford  or  Oxford — it  being  tlie  narrow  place  of 
cattle  shipping  in  ancient  times.  The  Golden  Horn  is 
a  narrow  bay  or  inlet,  running  up  in  a  horn-shape,  and 
along  which  the  many  Jewish  shops  collected  in  ancient 


TURKEY  91 

times,  and  where  they  coined  so  much  money  that  it 
took  the  name  Golden  Horn.  Two  bridges  are  built 
across,  the  shipping  all  gathering  below  the  old  and  the 
new  bridge,  across  both  of  which  we  drove  to  see  the 
immense  crowds  or  throngs  going  back  and  forth,  each 
one  paying  toll.  From  our  high  tower — it  being  a  clear 
day — we  could  see  the  multitude  of  people  crossing — the 
city  of  Stamboul,  with  its  many  domes  and  minarets, 
and  its  many  palatial  buildings — the  vast  shipping  in  the 
harbor  of  all  kinds  of  steamers,  sailing  vessels  and  other 
kinds  of  craft — the  tugs  pulling  vessels  out  and  bring- 
ing others  in,  and  the  ferry-boats  running  from  the  new 
bridge,  back  and  forth  to  Scutari  on  the  other  side. 
Then  we  could  see  up  the  Bosphorus  and  down  and  out 
into  the  Sea  of  Marmora.  Then  below  us  was  a  city 
of  more  than  a  million  of  people — the  great  majority 
wearing  the  red  fez  cap  of  the  Turk  and  the  fantastic 
costume  of  bright  scarlet  colors  that  so  delight  the  male 
Turk,  while  the  women  are  generally  clad  in  black  and 
heavily  veiled,  so  that  only  the  eyes  peep  out,  and  a 
man  would  not  know  his  own  mother  or  sister.  Then 
on  the  Pera-Galata  side  you  could  see  the  newer  city 
running  over  the  hills  and  containing  the  Sultan's  palace, 
the  Marine  and  Military  buildings,  the  buildings  of  for- 
eign consulates,  ministers  and  embassies.  The  United 
States  Embassy  has  just  purchased  a  handsome  building 
here,  quite  near  the  Hotel  Pera  Palace,  where  we  reside 
during  our  stay  in  Constantinople.  I  had  to  call  at  the 
office  of  the  Consul-General  and  have  my  passport 
vised — then  go  to  the  Consul-General  of  Roimiania  and 
have  it  vised  by  him  in  order  to  visit  the  kingdom  of 
Roumania — each  costing  one  dollar — and  I  had  to  have 


92  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

it  vised  by  the  Turkish  Consul  before  being  allowed  to 
enter  Turkey — another  dollar. 

In  leaving  the  tower  we  drove  across  the  bridge  to 
visit  the  Mohammedan  Mosque,  St.  Sophia,  the  hand- 
somest and  most  expensive  one  in  the  world,  the  next 
one  being  the  Mosque  of  Omar  on  the  site  of  Solomon's 
Temple,  which  we  visited  while  in  Jerusalem.  It  has 
a  very  high  dome,  with  four  very  high  minarets,  from 
which  the  Moslem  priest  calls  upon  the  followers  of 
Islam  to  pray  and  proclaim  from  the  street  corners  and 
housetops  that  there  is  but  "one  God  and  Mahomet  is 
His  Prophet."  This  was  once  a  Christian  church,  built 
either  by  Constantine  the  Great  or  his  son  Constantius, 
and  I  could  see  where  the  pictures  of  Christ  had  been 
efifaced  from  the  walls  and  saw  the  mark  of  the  bloody 
hand  on  the  pillar  to  commemorate  a  Christian  butchery. 
Some  of  the  pillars  that  were  in  Solomon's  Temple  were 
brought  here  and  placed  in  this.  The  lacquer  work  and 
plating  in  the  ceilings  and  dome  are  said  to  be  of  pure 
gold,  and  as  I  had  no  chance  to  assay  it,  could  not  deny 
the  allegation.  But  the  building  certainly  is  the  very 
acme  of  beauty  and  magnificence.  This  is  where  the 
Sultan  in  great  pomp  comes  once  a  year  to  visit  and  sits 
behind  latticed  screens — like  all  the  Turkish  houses  have 
to  conceal  the  women — so  that  you  could  not  see  the  per- 
son behind  in  the  Sultan's  box.  The  church  has  no 
seats,  only  matting,  upon  which  the  pious  place  prayer 
rugs,  and  praying  bow  the  head  to  the  floor  three  tiirues 
with  the  face  turned  toward  Mecca.  The  women  never 
come  into  the  main  floor  with  the  men,  but  occupy  gal- 
leries prepared  for  them.  We  heard  the  boys  repeating 
pages  of  the  Koran  to  a  priest  in  a  sing-song  tone  of 


TURKEY  93 

voice.  From  here  we  went  to  the  Museum  and  saw  the 
finest  tomb  probably  in  the  world  for  its  size,  said  to 
have  contained  the  remains  of  Alexander  the  Great, 
although  only  a  few  scraps,  not  more  than  a  handful, 
remain,  which  are  on  exhibition,  and  plainly  say  "such 
is  human  greatness."  The  Alexandria  Sarcophagus  of 
Pentelic  marble  is  really  beautiful  and  in  a  wonderful 
state  of  preservation.  The  horses  and  chariots  are  mag- 
nificent, and  Alexander  the  Great  is  represented  on  it. 
It  was  found  at  Sidon.  Near  by  the  Alexander  tomb 
was  one  of  a  king,  being  the  sarcophagus,  his  actual 
remains  in  a  glass  case,  showing  the  skull  bones  and 
viscera,  being  mummified  by  some  powers  known  to 
the  ancients,  and  w^ell  preserved,  though  buried  centuries 
before  the  birth  of  Christ. 

One  of  the  famous  sights  in  Stamboul  was  the  Turk- 
ish Bazaar,  where  seven  thousand  shops  are  collected 
within  a  few  blocks  and  mostly  in  one  building — such 
a  babel  of  voices — and  pulling  and  cajoling  you  to  stop 
and  examine  their  wares.  We  drove  out  to  the  Yildiz- 
Kiosk,  the  residence  of  the  deposed  Sultan,  and  we 
walked  through  the  palace  grounds,  being  the  first 
Americans  accorded  the  privilege,  so  our  dragoman  said, 
as  the  grounds  were  only  opened  on  Saturday  and  our 
visit  was  on  Monday  following.  The  greatest  collections 
of  pigeons — which  are  sacred  and  not  killed  here  fot 
food — if  not  in  number,  in  variety,  that  we  have  evei 
seen.  A  high  wall — some  thirty  feet — surrounds  the 
place.  Fine  trees  with  all  manner  of  fruits,  waterfalls, 
running  streanis,  fine  swards  of  lawn  and  costing  im 
mense  sums  of  money  to  create  and  maintain,  and  all  for 
the  personal  use  of  the  Sultan.   The  new  regime,  if  able 


94  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

to  stay  in  the  saddle,  is  doing-  away  with  all  this.  We 
passed  the  Harem — every  opening  to  the  public  streets 
or  grounds  being  closed — not  a  window — just  a  blank 
wall  thirty  to  forty  feet  high.  We  also  saw  the  build- 
ings shotted  and  shelled  on  the  thirteenth  of  April  last, 
when  the  soldiers  under  the  command  of  the  Young 
Turks  overturned  the  government  and  imprisoned  the 
Sultan.  We  also  visited  the  tomb  of  the  brother  of  the 
old  Sultan,  believed  to  have  been  poisoned,  while  the 
new  Sultan  was  kept  in  prison  by  the  old  one  for  nearly 
thirty  years,  so  that  he  now  shows  weakness  of  mind 
from  his  long  incarceration,  and  the  government  will  not 
be  managed  by  him,  but  by  the  Constitutional  Assembly. 

The  Senate  and  House  was  in  session  when  I  passed 
the  building,  but  I  could  not  enter  without  permit  to 
be  obtained  through  our  Embassy.  On  leaving  Con- 
stantinople we  passed  by  steamer  up  the  Bosphorus,  pass- 
ing Therapia  and  many  beautiful  places  and  summer 
homes  and  numerous  cities  along  the  banks,  and  so  near 
that  it  made  a  perfect  panorama  of  changing  sights  and 
scenes.  No  lovelier  ride  in  all  the  world  than  from 
Constantinople  for  thirty  miles,  I  should  say,  in  distance, 
to  the  Black  Sea. 

The  fortifications  at  the  mouth  of  the  Bosphorus  com- 
ing from  the  Black  Sea  are  as  strong  and  impregnable 
as  are  the  ones  coming  up  from  the  Aegean  Sea  into 
the  Dardanelles.  In  fact  the  only  way  in  which  the  city 
could  be  taken  would  be  from  the  land  side,  and  that 
would  have  serious  drawbacks.  Probably  no  city  in  the 
world  is  so  well  situated  for  defense  and  for  beauty  of 
location  as  Constantinople,  and  for  centuries  it  was  the 
battle  ground  of  Europe.     It  was  here  that  the  British 


TURKEY  95 

buried  their  dead  resulting  from  the  Crimean  war,  and 
the  EngHsh  burying  ground  is  still  maintained  at  Scutari. 
We  sailed  out  into  the  Black  Sea  for  one  hundred  and 
seventy  miles  to  the  port  of  Constanza  on  the  eastern 
side  of  Europe,  and  from  there  took  train  to  Bucharest, 
the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Roumania,  taken  from 
the  sovereignity  of  Turkey  in  1877  and  1878  and  made 
a  kingdom  in  1881. 

Constanza  is  a  great  shipping  port  with  a  fine  quay 
and  wharf  to  which  steamers  coirie.  The  train  ride  of 
one  hundred  and  forty  miles  to  this  city  had  many  in- 
teresting features.  The  land  is  fertile  and  the  crops 
grown  are  barley,  wheat,  corn,  hay  and  potatoes.  The 
land  is  plowed  with  six-ox  teams,  very  large  and  strong 
and  all  white,  and  the  plow  is  not  held,  nor  ridden  as  a 
sulkey,  but  the  driver  walks  along  by  the  side  of  his 
oxen.  The  land  is  plowed  very  deep  and  the  grains 
grown  are  healthy  and  vigorous.  The  acreage  is  im- 
mense, and  I  saw  as  many  as  twenty-six  ox  teams  in 
a  single  field.  The  corn  was  about  twelve  to  eighteen 
inches  high  and  cultivated  with  the  same  kind  of  teams, 
only  two  oxen  3'oked  widely  apart,  so  that  the  plow  ran 
in  between  one  row  of  corn  and  the  oxen  walking  with 
the  row  four  feet  wide  between  them.  The  villagers 
come  out  to  work,  and  as  many  as  twenty  were  in  one 
field  hoeing  and  weeding  the  corn  after  plowing.  The 
corn  looked  as  well  as  in  Auglaize  county's  best  land. 
Cattle  and  horses  in  large  herds  and  large  flocks  of 
sheep,  but  not  a  fence  to  be  seen,  all  herded  by  keepers. 
The  ground  was  as  level  as  the  prairies  of  Kansas,  but 
many  forests  are  seen.  I  should  judge  that  the  people 
here   look  upon  this  as  a   stable  government  and   that 


96  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

security  to  life  and  property  can  be  had,  and  that  they 
who  sow  can  reap,  which  should  be  so,  for  the  laborer 
is  worthy  of  his  reward.  I  doubt  if  such  a  condition  of 
things  exists  in  Turkey,  for  there  they  farm  out  the 
taxes,  and  the  tax-gatherer,  having  bought  the  privilege 
of  collecting  the  revenues,  makes  the  poor  taxpayer  pay 
the  last  farthing. 

Bucharest  is  a  city  of  three  hundred  thousand  people, 
and  in  our  drive  today  we  saw  the  King's  Palace,  many 
very  fine  government  buildings  and  the  beautiful  home 
of  the  son  of  the  king,  heir  apparent,  some  very  fine 
boulevards  and  some  very  handsome  monuments.  The 
business  blocks  are  well  built  and  the  stores  filled  with 
beautiful  things. 

One  serious  disadvantage  in  visiting  here  is  the  fact 
that  English  is  seldom  spoken.  Not  one  in  our  hotel 
can  speak  English,  and  with  my  smattering  of  German 
I  have  to  make  my  wants  known  to  the  portier  at  the 
door.  While  there  are  many  things  of  interest  seen 
here,  they  are  much  like  things  seen  in  other  cities,  and 
I  shall  not  attempt  to  describe  them.  Tomorrow  we 
shall  leave  here  for  Budapest  in  Hungary,  and  leave  the 
Balkan  States  which  have  been  the  buffer  between  Eu- 
rope and  the  Turks  for  many  years. 


ROUMxVXIA  AND   HUXGARY 


Our  Correspondent  Dkscrirks  Buda-Pest— Scenes 
Along  the  Danube  Rixer.  and  Fees  and  Tips 
Required  on   Steamer  and  at  Hotels. 


Buda-Pest.  Hungary,  June  26.    1909. 

THE  railway  journey  from  P»ucharest  in  Roumania 
to  this  city  on  the   Danube,   interspersed   with   a 
(Hversity    of    scenes,    rivers,    moiuitains,    canyons, 
villa,c:es    witli    the    Roumanian    and    Huns^arian    peasants 
and    villagers   in   their   quaint,   and    to   us   curious,   cos- 
tumes, was  of  great  interest. 

In  our  compartment  was  a  mother  and  daughter  from 
Bucharest.  The  daughter,  her  father  being  in  the  diplo- 
matic service,  had  learned  to  speak  a  little  English,  and 
served  as  interpreter  for  us  and  was  able  to  point  out 
and  explain  the  places  and  scenes  of  special  interest  on 
the  way.  In  going  through  the  custom  house  at  the 
Hungarian-Roumanian  frontier,  our  new-made  friends 
assisted  us  materially,  as  it  was  the  most  exacting  on 
our  route  of  travel. 

We  passed  the  summer  home  of  the  King  of  Rou- 
mania at  Senoia,  well  up  in  the  mountains,  a  handsome 
chalet,  fine  roadways  and  charming  views  in  all  direc- 
tions. When  we  entered  Hungary  we  came  into  the 
dominions  of  the  aged  Emperor  Francis  Joseph,  who 
rules  over  the  Austrian-Hungarian  Empire  and  which 
is  liable  to  have  a  separation  or  revolution  at  the 
death  of  the  Emperor,  for  the  Himgarian  people  are 
tired  of  this  hyphenated  union.  The  Austrians  are 
largely  Roman  Catholic  while  the  Hungarians  are  mostly 


98  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

Protestant.  It  was  this  religious  conflict  between  the 
Catholics  and  Protestants  that  caused  the  downfall  of 
Buda-Pest  in  the  time  of  Sultan  Solyman,  called  the 
Magnificent,  when  Louis  the  Second  was  King  of  Hun- 
gary in  A.D.  1525,  but  at  the  battle  of  Mohacs  was 
defeated  by  the  Turks  and  perished  in  the  flight  by  the 
falling  of  his  horse. 

Later  when  Solyman  with  his  Turkish  army  advanced 
toward  Vienna,  the  Catholics  and  Protestant  Christians, 
laying  aside  their  sectarian  controversies,  united  against 
the  Turks  and  hurled  them  back  across  the  Danube  and 
turned  them  into  a  hasty  flight  through  Servia  and  Bos- 
nia to  the  Bosphorus. 

Buda-Pest  is  a  beautiful  city  of  nearly  five  hundred 
thousand  people,  and  since  1873,  the  former  towns  of 
Buda,  the  business  portion  on  one  side  of  the  Danube, 
and  Pest,  the  palatial  and  residential  section  on  the  other, 
have  been  consolidated  and  known  as  Buda-Pest. 

The  Danube  River  is  one  of  the  widest,  clearest  and 
deepest  rivers  in  Europe,  and  from  its  mouth  at  the 
Black  Sea  it  goes  up  through  Roumania  along  the 
dividing  line  of  Servia  from  Hungary  to  Belgrade  and 
up  through  Hungary  and  Austria  to  Vienna,  and  since 
1896,  at  the  completion  of  the  work  of  making  a  chan- 
nel through  what  is  called  the  "Iron  Gate  of  the  Dan- 
ube" at  Orsova,  navigable  for  fair-sized  river  steamers 
all  the  way. 

At  Buda-Pest  our  hotel,  the  "Hungaria,"  is  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  and  we  could  see  the  steamers  plying 
up  and  down  the  river  at  all  hours.  We  took  several 
steamer  rides  across  and  down  and  up  the  river,  one  to 
the  Island  "Margarethcn,"  a  great  pleasure  resort  and 
park  and  filled  with  people  listening  to   the  Hungarian 


ROUMAXIA  AND  HUNGARY  99 

concerts  and  other  interesting  entertainments.  We  had 
steamed  down  the  Thames  to  its  mouth  and  up  to  the 
"Stanes";  down  and  up  the  Seine  in  France;  up  and 
down  the  Nile  in  Egypt,  on  the  Pearl  in  China,  up  the 
Scheldt  in  Belgium,  the  Spree  at  Berlin,  up  the  Rhine, 
on  the  Tiber  at  Rome,  the  canals  of  \'enice,  and  up  our 
own  Hudson  to  Albany  and  we  pronounce  the  Danube 
the  finest  of  all  these  water  journeys,  for  attractive  sur- 
roundings. The  palace  and  grounds  on  the  sloping 
hillside  of  the  Pest  side  of  the  river  presents  a  beauti- 
ful and  charming  view  froin  our  hotel  window's,  and 
crossing  over  we  spent  some  time  in  the  shade  of  the 
trees  and  in  examination  of  the  botanical  specimens  of 
plants,  bushes  and  trees.  The  fine  large  Parliament 
buildings,  on  the  Buda  side,  with  lawns  sloping  down 
to  the  river's  edge,  are  charming.  The  buildings  for 
stores  are  elegant,  the  city  is  clean  and  well  kept  and 
anyone  inclined  to  travel  should  not  exclude  Buda-Pest 
from  the  places  of  interest  to  be  seen,  for  it  is  well 
worth  a  visit,  and  a  promenade  along  the  quay  of  the 
Danube  is  attractive. 

In  1894,  the  Hungarian  hero,  Louis  Kossuth,  one  of 
the  ablest  statesman  and  sincerest  patriots,  died,  and 
with  him  perished  the  most  insistent  and  persistent 
opponent  of  the  union  with  Austria.  His  funeral  at 
Buda-Pest  was  the  occasion  for  large  public  demonstra- 
tions and  party  feeling  ran  high,  and  so  intense  was  the 
patriotic  outbursts  that  theaters  and  places  of  public 
amusement  were  closed  to  prevent  riots,  if  not  a 
revolution. 

The  architectural  construction  of  public  buildings, 
palaces,  and  residences  is  of  the  highest  order  and 
substantially  built.     The  shops  and  stores  are  filled  with 


loo  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

the  choicest  of  fabrics,  and  the  show  windows  make  dis- 
plays as  charming  as  on  Regent  street  in  London  or 
the  boulevards  of  Paris. 

A  magnificent  suspension  bridge  crosses  the  Danube 
here  and  sufficiently  high  above  the  water  for  large 
steamers  to  pass  underneath.  The  thoroughfare  along 
the  river  bank  is  thronged  with  people  at  almost  all 
hours  and  cafes  line  it,  on  the  building  side,  where 
luncheons  or  repasts  are  served  at  all  hours  of  the  day, 
and  while  prices  are  not  low,  yet  everything  to  tempt 
the  palate  is  offered,  well  cooked  and  well  served. 
Cleanliness  is  the  rule,  politeness  always  shown,  and 
marked  attention  given  and  the  choicest  viands  served 
if  you  tempt  the  waiter  with  a  small  gratuity,  which  is 
expected  in  all  European  countries  and  not  refused  in 
our  own. 

There  are  some  fine  equestrian  and  other  statues  on 
the  Boulevards  and  great  artistic  taste  is  shown.  Our 
driver,  who  could  speak  some  English,  pointed  out  the 
several  places  of  interest  and  drove  through  the  mag- 
nificent public  parks  of  the  city  and  environs. 

We  shall  go  by  train  from  here  to  Vienna,  although 
we  would  prefer  the  steamer  ride  up  the  Danube,  but 
going  up  stream  the  passage  requires  so  much  greater 
time,  that  we  are  compelled  to  relinquish  the  preferable 
route,  and  hasten  on  our  journey.  This  is  required,  not 
because  we  do  not  desire  to  linger  on  the  way,  but  hav- 
ing secured  our  steamer  passage  home  on  a  date  set, 
we  are  required  to  make  time  on  our  journey,  for  the 
crowded  steamers  are  booked  ahead  for  passage  weeks 
in  advance  at  this  season  of  the  year. 

Let  us  say  in  passing  that  to  go  up  stream  is  better 
than   going   down,   to   see   the  places   of  interest  along 


ROUMAXIA  AND  HUNGARY  loi 

the  route,  hence  to  go  up  the  Rhine  or  Hudson  is  the 
better  way. 

We  have  our  compartment  eng^aged  for  Vienna  to  g;o 
up  in  the  morning.  The  first-class  compartments  are 
exclusive  and  pleasant  in  traveling  in  a  foreign  country, 
for  the  mass  of  the  people  travel  second-class.  In  Eng- 
land they  travel  third-class.  Second-class  on  the  conti- 
nent of  Europe  and  the  British  Isles  is  as  good  as  first- 
class  on  our  American  railways. 

I  am  often  asked  about  fees  in  traveling  on  steam- 
ship, and  so  you  will  pardon  the  digression  here  for 
me  to  answer  the  question  for  intending  travelers.  The 
first-class  passage  ticket  does  not  include  such  personal 
matters  as  stewards'  tips.  The  dining-room  steward, 
who  is  assigned  to  wait  on  you  at  table,  serves  you  on 
the  entire  voyage  of  the  steamer  and  should  receive  as 
a  minimum  fee  twenty-five  cents  a  day  for  each  person. 
The  state-room  steward  to  whose  care  and  custody  your 
room  is  assigned,  should  receive  the  same  fee.  unless 
you  liave  been  sea-sick  or  required  other  special  atten- 
tion ;  in  such  event,  his  services  should  be  specially 
rewarded  for  such  extra  attendance.  The  bathroom 
steward  who  prepares  your  bath  eacli  morning  of  the 
passage,  and  who  assigns  you  your  time  of  service  and 
calls  you  when  the  bath  is  prepared  should  receive 
twenty-five  cents,  to  be  paid  at  the  end  of  the  trip,  for 
each  bath.  The  deck  steward  who  sells  you  a  steamer 
chair  and  for  which  you  must  pay  one  dollar,  who  serves 
you  with  "bouillon"  and  wafers  in  the  morning  and 
"tea  and  cake"  in  the  afternoon  and  takes  care  of  your 
steamer  rugs,  should  be  paid  from  one  to  two  dollars 
fee  for  the  voyage,  according  to  the  services  rendered. 
Then  the  library  steward,  if  you  take  books  from  the 
steamer  library,  and   who  serves  you  with  pen.  ink  and 


102  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

paper,  must  be  remembered.  For  the  "Band  of  Music" 
on  the  voyage,  a  subscription  is  taken  just  before  the 
steamer  lands,  and  for  which  you  pay  such  sum  as  the 
music  has  appealed  to  your  tastes  or  added  to  the  pleas- 
ures of  the  trip.  The  band  is  usually  made  up  from 
table  and  room  stewards.  The  music  from  the  Band  is 
sometimes  very  highly  appreciated. 

One  of  the  pleasantest  memories  of  our  voyage  was 
one  Sunday  morning  when  crossing  the  Indian  Ocean 
on  the  steamer  "Goeben"  we  were  awakened  from  sleep 
by  the  sweet  strains  of  the  notes  made  by  the  German 
Band  in  playing  Luther's  hymn,  "Bin'  feste  burg  ist 
Unser  Gott".  The  time  and  the  place  made  it  of  un- 
usual interest  and  attractiveness.  Religious  exercises 
were  held  every  Sunday,  led  by  the  purser,  Mr.  Allen, 
on  the  "Korea"  in  the  crossing  the  Pacific  Ocean  and 
by  the  missionaries  returning  home  from  foreign  fields, 
in  the  dining-room  of  the  second  cabin,  on  the  German 
steamers.  The  Sabbath  morning  music,  singing  and 
sermons  gave  us  pleasure  and  profit,  and  the  voyage 
without  them  would  be  monotonous,  tiresome  and  tend 
to  detract  from  one's  spiritual  growth  and  the  finer 
religious  feelings  we   so  much  need  in  life's  journey. 

These  are  all  the  required  fees,  and  the  amounts 
stated  can  be  added  to  according  to  your  wealth,  liber- 
ality or  service  required.  At  the  hotels  you  must  not 
forget  the  boy  who  carries  up  your  luggage,  the  maid 
who  takes  care  of  your  room,  the  waiter  who  serves  you 
at  table  and  anyone  else  who  renders  you  special  service. 
Ten  per  cent  of  your  bill  is  considered  a  reasonable  fee 
for  attendance. 

The  "Concierge"  or  "Portier",  the  man  with  large 
brass  buttons,  with  much  gold  lace,  who  looks  all  the 
world  like  a  general  of  the  army  or  a  drum-major,  must 
not  be  forgotten  in  your  tipping  and  he  will  not  reject 


ROL'.\[AXIA  AXD  IirXGARY  103 

it  with  scorn,  but  accept  it  as  a  matter  of  course,  and 
he  is  worth  the  price.  He  should  be  your  guide  and 
cicerone.  With  a  doffing^  of  his  cap.  and  a  smile,  he 
greets  30U  when  you  arrive  and  salutes  you  majestic- 
ally when  you  depart.  He  is  your  friend  and  you  must 
treat  him  as  such  or  you  will  be  beaten  at  every  turn. 
If  you  want  a  carriage,  drosky,  cab.  cart,  ricksha,  auto 
or  any  other  mode  of  conveyance,  ask  him  t  j  call  it, 
tell  him  where  you  want  to  go,  and  he  will  tell  "cabby" 
or  "kutcher"  and  then  ask  him  the  "fare"  and  he  will 
tell  you,  and  when  you  get  to  your  journey's  end  pay 
the  amount  and  you  will  have  no  trouble.  If  you  land 
in  a  strange  city,  have  the  man  who  carries  your  bag- 
gage from  the  car  to  call  a  cab  and  tell  him  yov.r  hr.-A 
and  then  when  you  arrive  tell  your  "porficr"  to  pay  the 
fare  and  charge  to  your  bill  and  you  will  not  be  cheated. 
Ask  him  directions,  names  of  places  of  interest,  the 
points  you  should  not  miss  and  he  is  a  veritable  encyclo- 
pedia and  will  be  worth  more  than  a  guide  book.  He 
speaks  several  languages,  understands  all  fees  and  re- 
quirements, and  you  are  safe  in  his  hands.  On  our 
long  journey  the  "Grand  Hotel  du  Boulevard"  in  the 
city  of  Bucharest  was  the  only  hostelry  where  this 
potentate  did  not  understand  the  English  language,  and 
that  because  it  was  not  on  a  frequent  route  of  travel, 
or  was  out  of  season. 

We  will  pass  through  Pressburg,  the  old  capital  of 
Hungary,  on  our  way  up  to  Vienna,  or  "IVicn",  as  the 
Germans  call  it. 

We  have  not  attempted  to  describe  the  old  national 
museum,  which  contains  a  very  rich  and  valuable  collec- 
tion of  ancient  Hungarian  curiosities  and  works  of  art, 
and  many  other  places  and  things  of  interest,  for  our 
letters  must  be  brief  and  only  a  passing  comment  on 
what  we  may  see  on  our  way  around. 


AUSTRIA. 

From  Buda-Pest,  Hungary,  to  Christiania,  Norway, 
Our   Correspondent   Takes   a   "Look   See"   at 

"SCHOENBRUNN,"   THE   BEAUTIFUL   SumMER   HoME 

of  Emperor  Francis  Joseph,  Near  Vienna — And 
Drives  Around  the  Emperor's  Palace  and  Dow-n 
THE  Full  Length  of  "Unter  Den  Linden"  in 
Berlin — He  Sees  the  King  of  Denmark  at 
Copenhagen,  But  Not  Knowing  Who  He  Was 
Did  Not  Raise  His  Hat. 


Christiania,  Norway,  July  5,  1909. 

I  AM  writing-  this  letter  at  8  130  p.m.  without  any  light 
and  the  sun  has  not  set,  and  it  will  be  daylight  until 
eleven  o'clock  and  dawn  again  at  3  a.m.  We  arc 
now  not  far  from  the  midnight  sun — sixty  degrees  north 
latitude — as  far  north  as  Alaska. 

My  last  letter  was  from  Buda-Pest  in  Hungary,  and 
from  there  we  went  to  Vienna,  Austria,  passing  through 
fine  farming  country,  well  tilled  and  with  abundant 
crops — just  such  as  are  raised  in  Ohio. 

The  city  of  Vienna  is  one  of  the  handsomest  on  the 
continent  of  Europe.  We  drove  through  the  various 
sections — to  the  city  palace  of  the  Emperor  Francis 
Joseph — to  the  Parliament  buildings — to  the  City  Hall, 
probably  the  finest  in  Europe — to  the  picture  galleries — 
to  the  People's  Park,  where  a  monument  is  erected  to 
the  late  Empress  Elizabeth,  assassinated  at  Geneva  some 
years  ago,  and  who  built  the  beautiful  palace  on  the 
island  of  Corfu  in  the  Ionian  Sea,  described  in  a  former 


AUSTRIA  105 

letter.  She  was  beautiful  and  an  Empress,  but  was  not 
happy.  The  park  contained  a  beautiful  Greek  temple 
that  had  been  moved  over  from  Ephesus  in  Asia  Minor, 
where  Paul  once  preached.  It  was  surrounded  with 
handsome  fluted  columns  and  with  Ionic  capitals  and  is 
a  fine  specimen  of  Grecian  architecture.  We  went  out 
to  Schoenbrunn,  the  beautiful  summer  home  of  the  Em- 
peror, and  where  he  entertains  his  royal  friends.  Some 
of  the  finest  horse  chestnut  trees  line  the  approach  to  the 
palace  on  either  side  that  I  have  ever  seen  anywhere, 
and  the  large  grounds,  open  to  the  public,  make  a  beau- 
tiful park. 

Leaving  \'ienna  we  went  through  Prague  and  down 
along  the  bank  of  the  Elbe  river  for  nearly  one  hundred 
miles  to  Dresden,  the  capital  of  Saxony,  one  of  the 
states  of  the  German  Empire. 

W'e  spent  some  two  days  in  Berlin.  Having  spent 
some  two  weeks  there  just  six  years  before,  we  were 
familiar  wMth  the  principal  places  of  interest.  We  took 
a  drive  around  the  Emperor's  Palace — down  the  full 
length  of  "Unter  den  Linden''  through  the  "Branden- 
berger  Tor" — around  the  Parliament  buildings — passing 
the  statues  of  Bismarck  and  Roon,  and  through  the  full 
length  of  the  "Tier  Garten",  then  out  to  Charlottenberg, 
visiting  the  mausoleum  containing  the  sarcophagus  that 
holds  the  remains  of  the  late  Emperor  William  the  First, 
who  was  crowned  at  the  Palace  of  \'ersailles,  just  out 
of  Paris,  at  tiie  time  of  the  Franco- Prussian  war  of 
187 1.  He  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Frederick  William, 
father  of  the  present  Emperor,  and  who  reigned  just 
ninety-nine  days — a  very  short,  sad  and  sorrowful  reign, 
and  his  statue  at  Charlottenberg  is  surrounded  by  a 
wreath  of  thorns  indicating  his  sorrowful  term.     He  is 


io6  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

buried  at  Potsdam,  where  lies  the  great  King  of  Prussia 
— Frederick  the  Great. 

The  city  of  BerHn,  containing  over  two  miUions  of 
people,  is  a  clean,  orderly  and  beautiful  city.  Not  a  beg- 
gar to  be  seen  anywhere,  while  poor  Italy  swarms  with 
beggars.  Vienna  was  also  exempt  from  this  scourge, 
and  the  same  may  be  said  of  all  Scandinavia. 

In  leaving  Berlin  we  came  north  to  Rostock  and  there 
passed  over  the  Baltic  Sea — distance  thirty  miles  at  this 
point — to  the  island  of  Zeeland,  and  then  again  by 
steamer  a  short  distance  to  Denmark,  and  on  my  arrival 
there  I  was  met  by  King  Frederick  the  Seventh  just  as 
I  landed  in  Denmark.  The  King  of  Denmark  passed  the 
window  of  our  car — myself  and  wife  having  the  com- 
partment alone — twice.  When  I  noticed  hats  going  off 
along  the  car  I  wondered  who  the  person  was  and  learned 
that  it  was  the  King.  His  private  car  passed  ours  later 
and  we  followed  it  into  Copenhagen.  The  King  looked 
at  us  and  no  doubt  wondered  why  I  did  not  raise  my 
hat,  which  I  would  and  should  have  done  had  I  known 
who  he  was. 

We  left  Copenhagen  at  i  p.m.  July  3rd  for  Christiania, 
the  capital  of  Norway,  and  passed  up  through  the 
Kategat,  the  Skagerack,  and  Christiania — Fiord — sailed 
three  hundred  miles,  reaching  Christiania  on  the  night 
of  July  4th  at  9  p.m.,  and  while  it  was  raining  it  was 
still  light  as  day.  We  spent  the  Fourth  of  July  on  the 
steamer  "King  Haakon"  on  a  somewhat  stormy  and 
storm-tossed  sea,  but  it  was  cool — so  cold  in  fact  that  I 
had  my  overcoat  on  all  day,  and  that  on  July  4th. 

We  stopped  for  an  hour  or  two  at  Frederick's  Haven, 
and  went  on  shore,  but  did  not  stay  long  on  account  of 
rain.      We    spent    July    5th    as    usual — carriage    riding 


Al' STRIA  107 

through  the  city — botanical  gardens  and  streets  Hned 
with  beautiful  homes.  We  walked  up  to  the  palace  of 
King  Haakon  the  Seventh,  but  did  not  go  into  the  pal- 
ace, but  did  walk  through  the  palace  grounds  and  noticed 
one  thing — the  absence  of  soldiers  on  guard,  which 
seemed  to  us  much  better  to  see  a  king  protected  by  the 
affections  of  his  people  than  by  bayonets.  I  was  glad 
to  see  how  warmly  the  people  of  Denmark  greeted  their 
King,  showing  that  he  was  respected  by  the  people. 

As  usual  we  visited  the  Picture  Gallery — and  we  also 
visited  a  ship  of  the  Vikings,  of  exceeding  interest,  for 
it  was  just  such  a  one  as  was  used  by  the  Norsemen  who 
crossed  over  from  Iceland  three  hundred  years  before 
Columbus  and  undoubtedly  landed  on  the  shores  of 
America,  but  as  the  discovery  was  not  made  known  to 
the  world  and  possession  of  the  land  was  not  held,  it 
should  not  detract  from  the  honor  due  Columbus.  It 
looked  like  a  frail  bark  on  which  to  sail  into  boisterous 
and  tempestuous  seas,  but  these  hardy  Norsemen  are  and 
always  have  been  seamen. 

We  shall  leave  here  tomorrow  for  Gothenberg,  Sweden 
— the  town  which  has  gained  great  fame  as  the  place 
where  liquors  are  sold  without  profit — and  I  hope  to  be 
able  to  look  into  the  system,  and  if  it  is  a  good  one,  and 
they  do  not  tax  me  too  much  tariff  duty  in  New  York 
on  my  return,  I  may  bring  it  over  with  me  and  loan  it 
to  the  city  council  of  Wapakoneta. 

From  there  we  expect  to  spend  two  and  a  half  days 
sailing  on  the  famous  Goeta  Canal  from  Gothenberg 
through  Trollhatten  to  Stockholm,  Sweden,  going  still 
farther  and  farther  from  home.  We  are  enjoying  the 
world-wide  travel  in  many  and  strange  lands. 


SCANDINAVIA. 


Norwegian  Country  and  Village  Life  as  Seen  in  a 
Two  Hundred  and  Twenty  Miles  Trip  by  Rail. 
Our  Correspondent  Takes  Steamer  at  Gothen- 
burg and  Travels  Three  Hundred  and  Sixty- 
four  Miles  by  Canal,  Lakes  and  Baltic  Sea. 
Through  Picturesque  Swedish  Scenery  to 
Stockholm,  Passing  Through  Seventy-eive 
Locks  on  the  Way — Sightseeing  by  Tally-ho 
Coach  in  Stockholm. 


Copenhagen,  Denmark,  July  13,  '09. 

MY  last  letter  was  from  Christiania,  Norway,  and 
since  then  we  have  traveled  some  two  hundred 
and  twenty  miles  by  rail  to  Gothenburg,  most  of 
which  was  in  Norway,  and  gave  us  a  passing  view  of 
Norwegian  country  and  village  life.  The  crops  grown 
are  mostly  rye,  hay  and  potatoes.  The  cattle  are  fine, 
and  in  some  cases  we  noticed  the  Danish  method  of  feed- 
ing the  cows — sometimes  you  will  see  twenty,  thirty  or 
forty  head  of  cattle  in  a  field  of  clover  or  timothy  hay, 
all  tethered  with  ropes  so  that  each  one  can  only  reach 
such  a  portion  of  the  grass  as  the  rope  will  allow,  and 
the  grass  is  eaten  off  clean.  The  line  of  cattle  will  reach 
entirely  across  the  field  and  will  take  off  clean  about 
twenty  feet  square  of  the  grass.  There  is  no  hooking 
or  horning  of  the  weaker  by  the  stronger,  no  tramping 
down  and  wasting,  but  the  grass  is  taken  off  as  by  a 
mower.  Why  could  not  this  method  be  used  to  advan- 
tage in  our  country? 


SCAXDIXAX'IA  109 

One  of  the  remarkable  thin<;s  was  to  see  the  extreme 
neatness  at  the  farmhouses,  at  the  railway  stations  and 
everywhere — no  waste,  no  rubbish,  no  filth.  Such  but- 
ter as  we  had  up  here — clean,  sweet  and  delicious.  The 
grass  is  cut  almost  altogether  by  the  scythe,  and  it  is  a 
rare  sight  indeed  to  see  a  mowing  machine  in  the  field. 
The  rye  is  cut  either  with  sickle  or  cradle,  and  reaping 
machines  are  not  seen.  The  roads  are  all  well  built, 
strong  horses,  and  much  timber  uncut.  Some  parts  of 
the  country  good  soil  and  productive — but  much  land 
stony,  sterile  and  barren.  No  wonder  that  the  Scandina- 
vians have  gone  to  3>Iinnesota  and  the  Dakotas  in  such 
numbers.  The  city  of  Gothenburg  on  the  west  coast  of 
Sweden — on  the  Kategat — is  a  city  of  some  one  hundred 
and  sixty  thousand  people — next  to  Stockholm  the  larg- 
est city  in  Sweden.  It  is  a  fine  seaport  and  filled  wath 
steam  and  sailing  vessels  from  all  parts  of  the  world. 
It  has  many  beautiful  buildings  and  palatial  homes  and 
handsome,  well-kept  parks.  It  is  also  famous  as  the 
father  or  mother  of  the  "Gothenburg  method  of  liquor 
legislation,"  which  has  been  enacted  into  law  by  the  Par- 
liament of  Sweden  and  sanctioned  by  His  ^Majesty,  the 
King.  I  visited  some  prominent  business  men  and  in- 
quired about  the  working  of  the  law.  I  then  went  to  the 
office  headquarters  in  Gothenburg  and  obtained  a  copy 
of  the  law  in  English  and  statistics  showing  results 
accomplished.  The  law  was  enacted  about  twenty-five 
years  ago  and  has  had  a  fair  trial,  and  while  statistics 
show  less  drunkenness,  yet  the  decrease  is  not  great.  The 
law  only  allows  one  drink  a  day  to  a  visitor  to  the  saloon 
or  restaurant,  yet  in  a  city  like  Gothenburg,  where  there 
are  many  places,  he  can  get  a  drink  in  each  one,  but  in 
villages  where  only  one  place  is  licensed,  it  does  better. 


no  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

The  seller  is  the  agent  of  a  company  and  receives  no 
profit  from  the  sale,  but  let  me  say  in  passing  that  in 
the  city  of  Trollhatten  in  Sweden,  I  saw  a  greater  num- 
ber of  drunken  men  than  I  have  seen  in  my  entire  travels 
around  the  globe,  and  I  had  circled  the  globe  when  I 
reached  Dresden  in  Saxony,  for  I  was  there  six  years 
before.  I  am  bringing  home  a  copy  of  the  law,  but  I 
would  not  advise  its  adoption  by  the  Ohio  Legislature. 

On  leaving  Gothenburg  we  took  a  steamer  on  the 
Goeta  canal  for  Stockholm,  the  capital,  distant  three 
hundred  and  sixty-four  miles  by  the  canal  route.  In 
going  by  canal,  lakes  and  Baltic  Sea  it  took  us  two  days 
and  nine  hours  to  make  the  journey.  The  steamer  was 
small — about  twenty  feet  wide  and  one  hundred  feet  in 
length.  It  had  to  pass  through  seventy-five  locks  on  the 
way.  At  Trollhatten,  some  fifty  miles  from  Gothen- 
burg, the  steamer  had  to  pass  through  some  twelve  locks 
to  get  around  the  falls,  and  while  the  steamer  was  pass- 
ing through,  we  walked  around  the  falls  and  crossed 
the  river  and  ascended  the  high  hills  some  three  to  five 
hundred  feet  above  the  falls,  and  such  magnificent  views 
we  have  never  had  before.  The  falls  are  the  largest  in 
Europe,  and  while  small  in  size  compared  with  Niagara, 
yet  the  rapids  are  a  seething  whirlpool,  and  it  is  plain 
that  one  hundred  and  eighty  thousand  horse-power  can 
be  developed.  They  are  now  drilling  canals  through  the 
solid  rock  for  power  purposes  and  the  beauty  of  the  falls 
will  then  be  gone  for  the  gratification  of  this  utilitarian 
age  of  ours.  The  falls  are  certainly  magnificent,  and 
the  views,  on  account  of  the  forests  around  them  and 
taken  from  such  high  elevations,  are  surpassingly  mag- 
nificent.   We  walked  around  to  the  city  of  Trollhatten, 


SCANDINAVIA  in 

some  three  or  four  miles'  walk  in  all,  and  then  waited 
some  time  for  our  steamer.  One  morning  on  the  journey 
I  left  the  steamer  passing  through  a  lock,  walked  on 
for  something  like  four  or  five  miles,  walked  through 
the  streets  of  a  Swedish  town  and  then  waited  a  full 
half  hour  for  the  steamer  to  overtake  me.  This,  of 
course,  was  on  account  of  delay  in  passing  through  sev- 
eral locks.  Our  steamer  crossed  Lake  Wettern,  the 
largest  lake  in  Europe  except  one  in  Russia,  then  through 
Lake  Vetter  and  then  on  to  the  Baltic  Sea,  passing  one 
hundred  and  twenty  miles  from  the  end  of  the  canal  at 
Mens  to  the  city  of  Stockholm.  The  actual  canal  is 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  in  length  and 
was  nearly  one  hundred  years  in  construction,  much  of 
it  being  driven  through  rock.  Nils  Erickson,  whose 
monument  is  near  the  central  railway  station  in  Stock- 
holm, was  one  of  the  engineers  in  charge,  and  his  son, 
John  Erickson,  who  built  the  Monitor  for  our  govern- 
ment during  the  Civil  War,  that  destroyed  the  Merrimac, 
had  charge  of  work  on  the  canal.  It  was  a  fine  ride 
through  the  heart  of  Sweden,  and  presented  a  moving 
panorama  of  field,  forest,  rocky  clifTs,  coimtry  village, 
farm  house  and  country  folk  as  we  passed  along. 

On  the  Baltic  Sea  our  little  canal  steamer  was  like  a 
cork  riding  on  the  crest  of  the  waves  as  the  wind  was 
high — white-caps  on  every  hand — but  it  carried  us  safely 
into  the  harbor  at  Stockholm  only  one  hour  late.  The 
stateroom  on  the  steamer  was  small  but  neat,  the  food 
on  the  steamer  excellent,  and  altogether  it  was  a  delight- 
ful trip  and  has  our  commendation. 

Stockholm,  on  the  eastern  coast  of  Sweden,  on  the 
Baltic   Sea — a   city  of  two  hundred  and   fifty  thousand 


112  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

people — is  a  prosperous  city — full  of  ships,  with  a  large 
coasting-  trade  and  well  worth  a  visit,  but  to  describe  it 
would  be  simply  to  repeat  what  we  have  said  of  many 
others.  The  buildings,  both  business  and  residences,  are 
modern,  the  parks  are  beautiful  and  many  fine  monu- 
ments are  erected  to  Swedish  heroes.  The  bronze 
equestrian  statue  of  Sweden's  great  soldier,  Gustavus 
Adolphus,  is  very  fine. 

After  spending  two  days  in  sightseeing — mostly  in  a 
tally-ho  coach — we  left  by  rail  for  Malmo,  and  from 
there  crossed  over  by  sea  to  Copenhagen.  The  King, 
Frederick  the  Seventh,  had  gone  to  Russia,  so  he  did 
not  meet  us  as  before.  Here  we  have  spent  two  days 
carriage  driving,  street  car  riding  and  rubber-necking 
the  beautiful  shop  windows.  This  morning  we  went 
out  to  the  deer  park — where  the  large  forest  is  plenti- 
fully supplied  with  black  fawn  and  white  deer — but 
while  not  wild,  they  are  much  more  timid  than  were  the 
deer  in  the  park  at  Nara,  Japan.  The  forest  here  with 
giant  beech,  oak,  ash  and  other  trees,  is  of  great  beauty. 
Palatial  homes,  surrounded  by  park-like  grounds,  line 
the  streets  and  roads  out  from  Stockholm. 

We  expect  to  leave  here  tomorrow  for  Korsor,  on  the 
south  coast  of  Denmark,  and  will  then  cross  over  an 
arm  of  the  Baltic  Sea  to  Kiel  in  Germany,  where  the 
Imperial  navy  yard  and  ships  can  be  seen,  and  from 
there  to  Hamburg  and   Bremen. 

I  have  written  these  random  notes  at  odd  moments 
in  the  rush  of  travel  and  have  no  doubt  made  mistakes 
in  facts  and  as  well  in  faulty  construction,  which  more 
leisure  would  have  corrected. 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


Pastoral  Scenery  ix  the  Danish  Kinglx)m,  Where 
THE  People  Are  Well  Clad,  Industrious  and 
Apparently  P^^osperous — The  German  Seaport 
OF  Kiel.  Where  the  Emperor  Spends  Much 
Time  and  Takes  Great  Interest  in  the  Upbuild- 
ing of  the  German  Navy — The  Cities  of  Ham- 
burg, Bremen  and  Bremerhaven,  Where  Our 
Correspondent  Sailed  on  the  Steamer  George 
Washington  for  the  United  States. 


Steamship  George  Washington,  July  25,  1909. 

MV  last  letter  was  written  from  Copenhai^^cn  and 
continued  our  world's  journey  up  to  that  point, 
and  our  only  excuse  for  continuing'  our  letters 
beyond  that  city  is  to  make  a  connected  series  back  to 
the  entrance  to  New  York,  which  we  consider  as  home 
again.  So  foreign  has  been  a  portion  of  our  trip  that 
on  one  steamer  we  were  the  only  Americans  on  the 
steamship  and  no  English-speaking  people. 

On  leaving  Copenhagen  we  went  through  the  island 
of  Zeeland  to  the  southwest  end — this  island  being  that 
part  of  the  Danish  Kingdom  on  which  Copenhagen  is 
situated.  The  Kingdom  is  mostly  islands,  and  the  only 
part  of  the  continent  belonging  to  Denmark  is  that  por- 
tion north  of  Germany.  In  passing  through  from 
Copenhagen  to  Korsor  w^e  saw  the  farms,  cities  and  peo- 
ple. The  farm  houses  are  all  neat  and  well  kept,  nearly 
all  painted  w^hite  and  with  tile  or  thatched  roof  of  straw. 
Now  and  then  a  slate  roof,  but  never  shingles,  and  gen- 
erall\-   but  one   story   higli.     The   land   is  comparatively 


114  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

level,  well  tilled,  mostly  grass — timothy  and  clover — and 
the  cattle  are  all  sleek  and  fat.  Such  butter,  cream  and 
milk  as  we  had  in  Denmark,  Norway  and  Sweden,  we 
will  not  soon  forget.  The  people  are  industrious,  hard- 
working, well  clad  and  seem  to  be  prosperous.  At  one 
place  we  saw  a  large  picnic  party,  gay  with  bunting, 
the  lads  and  lasses  clad  in  native  costumes  of  bright 
colors  and  seemed  to  be  enjoying  life  to  the  utmost.  The 
cities  carry  the  general  appearance  of  neatness  and 
thrift — no  tumble-down  buildings,  no  dirt  piles,  weeds 
and  garbage  to  mar  the  surroundings. 

Arriving  at  Korsor  we  took  a  steamship  for  Kiel — 
across  the  Baltic  Sea — a  journey  of  six  hours  by  steamer 
and  about  one  hundred  miles  from  one  port  to  the  other. 
In  going  up  to  Kiel  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Kiel 
ship  canal,  cut  from  the  Baltic  through  for  an  outlet  to 
the  North  Sea — or,  as  the  Germans  now  call  it,  the 
German  Sea.  On  entering  Kiel  the  great  ship-building 
and  dock-yards  for  warships,  from  Dreadnaughts, 
cruisers,  torpedo  boats  and  submarine  to  every  other 
kind  of  warship,  indicated  that  Germany  has  become  a 
great  sea  power,  and  should  war  on  the  sea  take  place 
between  her  and  any  other  power — the 'nation  engaging 
her  will  think  that  it  has  been  in  a  fight.  The  Emperor's 
yacht,  the  Hohenzollern,  was  at  anchor  there  and  is  cer- 
tainly a  beautiful  ship.  The  Emperor  spends  much  of 
his  time  at  Kiel  and  has  taken  great  personal  interest 
in  the  upbuilding  of  the  German  navy.  Never  before 
has  Germany  made  such  a  great  effort  to  become  a  sea 
power,  and  she  has  at  Kiel  a  great  place  for  the  build- 
ing, launching,  docking  and  anchoring  of  a  great  navy. 

The  coming  into  the  harbor  in  mid-afternoon  and  see- 
ing so  well  all  the  ships  and  craft  of  every  kind  was  a 


HOMEWARD  r.OUXD  115 

great  sight,  and  the  stir  and  preparation  going  on — the 
great  cranes  operating — the  ships  moving  in  and  out  of 
the  harbor — the  steam  whistles  blowing — the  docks  lined 
with  people  and  every  indication  of  a  great  city,  where 
only  a  few  years  ago  was  a  mere  fishing  village — shows 
what  the  German  Empire  is  doing  in  these  latter  days. 
The  great  question  that  arises  is  why  all  this  rapid  and 
energetic  building  of  these  great  war  vessels? 

England  answers  the  question  by  saying  it  can  only 
mean  a  conflict  with  Great  Britain,  the  only  sea  power 
that  can  require  so  much  and  such  energetic  pushing  of 
naval  vessels  and  the  asking  of  such  large  appropriations 
by  the  Reichstag,  and  she  answers  it  by  saying,  let  Great 
Britain  build  and  equip  two  new  Dreadnaughts  for  each 
one  built  by  Germany.  Thus  preparation  for  war  on 
land  and  sea  goes  steadily  on,  and  the  Peace  Tribunal  of 
The  Hague  seems  only  designed  to  settle  the  pigmy  ques- 
tions of  small  nations  and  states. 

From  Kiel  we  went  to  Altona  and  Hamburg,  two  very 
large  and  prosperous  cities.  On  the  way  through  north- 
ern Germany  we  saw  some  fine  herds  of  Holstein  cattle 
and  some  fields  of  buckwheat  in  full  blossom,  a  sight 
now  rarely  seen.  The  Germans  have  the  same  thrifty 
habits  that  characterize  their  countrymen  who  have  emi- 
grated to  America.  Quite  a  good  many  people  over 
here  have  spoken  to  me  about  the  chances  in  America 
now  as  compared  with  former  years.  I  have  replied  that 
the  same  industry,  economy,  temperate  habits  and  safe 
investments  will  always  bring  the  same  reward.  I  was 
in  Hamburg  six  years  ago  and  can  see  quite  a  change 
in  the  growth  of  the  city.  Six  years  past  in  this  month 
of  July  I  sailed  from  Hamburg  across  the  North  Sea  to 
Leith,  Scotland,  the  port  of  Edinburgh,  and  it  was  one 


ii6  CIRCLING  THE  GLOBE 

of  the  roughest  sea  voyages  that  it  has  ever  been  my  lot 
to  encounter.  It  was  a  comparatively  small  steamer  and 
the  North  Sea  was  in  one  of  its  most  angry  moods,  and 
the  steamer  lurched  and  pitched  like  a  drunken  man. 
My  wife  was  literally  thrown  across  our  large  stateroom 
against  an  oak  curtain  rod,  striking  it  with  the  back  of 
her  head,  and  broke  it  in  pieces — the  curtain  rod — and 
the  purser  did  not  even  ask  me  to  pay  for  it.  So  that 
our  recollection  of  Hamburg  as  our  port  of  sailing  was 
very  acute. 

From  Hamburg  we  went  to  the  city  of  Bremen,  spend- 
ing two  days  there  in  sightseeing  in  the  parks,  along 
the  shopping  streets,  the  cathedral  and  through  the 
Rathans — City  Hall — a  building  some  six  hundred  years 
old.  The  carvings  are  perfectly  wonderful  on  the  inte- 
rior of  the  Council  Chamber,  and  the  committee  rooms 
of  the  Council  are  of  rare  beauty.  The  old  oaken  doors 
that  have  stood  for  centuries,  and  through  which  many 
generations  of  men  have  passed  in  and  out,  are  massive, 
ornamental  and  unique  in  construction.  The  extensive 
ornamental  work,  all  done  before  the  age  of  machinery, 
was  the  labor  of  many  hands  through  many  years. 

From  Bremen  we  went  to  Bremerhaven  to  take  our 
steamship,  the  "George  Washington,"  for  America.  This 
steamer  is  a  perfect  floating  palace  and  well  worth  a 
description.  This  is  her  second  voyage.  She  is  seven 
hundred  and  twenty-two  feet  in  length,  reaching,  say, 
from  the  Burnett  House  corner  farther  than  the  Repub- 
lican office  on  Auglaize  street;  in  width  seventy-eight 
feet,  wider  than  Auglaize  street.  Depth  eighty  feet,  be- 
ing higher  than  your  Court  House.  If  stood  on  end 
she  would  tower  one  hundred  and  sixty-seven  feet  above 
the    Washington    monument.      The    main    dining    room 


HOMEWARD  BKJL'XD  117 

covers  nearly  six  thousand  square  feet  and  contains  seats 
for  four  hundred  and  seventy  persons.  Forty-one  hun- 
dred electric  lamps  are  distributed  over  the  ship  for  light- 
ings purposes,  the  current  being  generated  by  seven  dy- 
namos. There  are  five  decks  with  electric  elevators  to 
carry  invalids  and  lazy  people  from  one  deck  to  another. 
On  every  hand  we  see  reminders  of  the  great  and  good 
first  President  of  the  United  States.  Full-length  por- 
traits in  the  smoking  room,  bust  pictures  of  General 
Washington  and  his  wife  Martha  in  the  parlor,  or  So- 
larium, as  it  is  called ;  there  are  handsome  pictures  of  the 
Capitol  building,  the  White  House,  front  and  rear  view, 
of  the  Washington  monument,  of  the  residence  at  Mount 
\'ernon,  on  the  Potomac,  and  lastly  of  the  tomb  contain- 
ing the  remains  of  the  "Father  of  his  country."  It  has 
been  said  of  this  steamship  that  every  improvement  has 
been  applied  to  the  George  Washington,  making  of  it 
the  most  modern  and  most  complete  steamship  in  the 
world. 

We  have  in  our  journey  around  the  world  to  New 
York  sailed  in  twelve  steamships  and  covering  a  distance 
of  twenty-three  thousand  and  two  hundred  miles,  cover- 
ing thirty-two  oceans,  seas  and  lakes  and  five  thousand 
six  hundred  and  sixty  miles  by  rail  on  land,  and  have 
been  quartered  in  twenty-eight  different  hotels ;  we  have 
ridden  camels,  horses,  donkeys  and  been  carried  in  sedan 
chairs  and  drawn  in  rikshas  of  every  make  and  pattern. 
We  have  gone  south  to  the  equator,  lacking  one  degree, 
and  north  sixty  degrees  almost  to  the  midnight  sun  in 
Norway ;  we  have  suffered  with  cold,  and  melted  with 
fiercest  heat  on  the  desert  in  Egypt,  and  yet  on  all  the 
journeys  we  have  been  blessed  with  good  health  and 
have  met  with  no  accident,  and  in  our  heart  of  hearts  we 
can  say  "Praise  God  from  whom  all  blessings  flow." 


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